How much does temperature matter? I bought a fridge last summer but it only holds one bucket. If I brew two batches in a day, I’ll use Kviek on the room-temp batch (72-75F) and US-05 (or whatever) in the fridge around 65F. Should I bring the bucket out of the fridge for dry hopping or is that temp range just not enough to bother with “optimizing”?
For me personally I dry hop at fermentation temps (though I’m itching to try Denny’s method at 34F soon). I haven’t found any difference at temperature, warm or coolish. I’ve had great luck from high 50’s to low 70’s.
I try to dry hop right near the end of fermentation so that the yeast activity scrubs any o2 that may be introduced. I let the hops sit for a few days to let the beer clear up and avoid any potential issues with hop creep.
It doesn’t take long for the beer to absorb the hop aroma and it doesn’t take more than a few days for the hops to settle out.
This is where all the info on the cold dry hopping is coming from… plus experience of the homebrewers that have done it.
http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-short-and-cool-dry-hopping/
I’ve done it this way, and I wouldn’t do it any other way but I can make it happen pretty easily with my set up.
I have started dry hopping at 35F for 48 jiyrs and am getting the best dry hop character Ive ever had. I firmly believe that warm dry hopping is not as effective.
I also think the short time is key. According the the BSG paper, after 48 hours, you’ve extracted all that you’re going to in terms of the stuff you want. After that, the oils start getting reabsorbed. The short time also limits expression of polyphenols.
the way i read that it sounds a bit long to dry hop? 
i can only imagine your refrigeration bill
typing on a tablet before coffee yields some interesting words…
You have to learn to interpret ‘Denny speak’. [emoji23]
I have a few different methods depending on the beer. I do want to experiment more with the method Denny describes.
Old School/ West Coast IPAs
Dry hop after fermentation is complete, usually for 5-7 days then cold crash
NEIPAs
I double dry hop. The first smaller addition goes in with a few Plato left in fermentation. The second will go in at the end after I’ve started to bring the yeast down for cold crash. The temp is usually 55-60. I continue to drop the temperature for a few days then cold crash the beer after 2 days and rack it to a keg a day or two later. This method I developed from a Juicy Bits clone and works well for me.
After reading Scott Janish’s book, The New IPA, I’ve plan to try to reduce the dry hop time and maybe add hops right at cold crash as Denny describes. There are a lot of new things I want to try from that book. It will take me awhile to get through them because I want to do each one on its own to really be able to determine what made the change.
I agree but it has to be practical as well. At Yellowhammer I would recirculate the hops in the tank over night then centrifuge the next day. For homebrew I usually let them sit for 3-5 days because of practicality.
Your voice, but short contact time plays as big a role as the temp
Like I said,I don’t disagree. Usually I try to time it so the beer is off the hops after 3 days. But if something comes up and I have to punt it I’m not going to stress. I had had amazing hop aroma after 3 hours of dry hopping. You don’t have to convince me that time is an issue. But I’m not about to say a beer dry hopped for 5 days is sh!t either.
Agreed. We’re homebrewers after all!
I dry hop in primary at 35-38F for 2-3 days then keg the beer. I like the results better than warm dry hopping. 
I think I’ve run across that article before. Thanks for posting it. Just simply amazing information in there. I thought this was particularly interesting because I have Chit in the recipe I’ve been experimenting with but the added dextrins may not mix so well with dry hopping in the keg:
"This re-fermentation is now commonly referred to as hop creep. In particular, four different enzymes have found in hops (Amyloglucosidase, α-amylase, β-amylase, and limit dextrinase) and when active in beer with dextrins available can lead to re-fermentation. Why is hop creep a problem? If this re-fermentation happens after the yeast has been removed from the beer you can produce diacetyl from an unhealthy re-ferment. "
I’ve really gotta give primary dry hopping a try then. I’ve not been getting the hop flavor and aromas that I’m looking for even after doubling the hop additions. I think part of it may be my water (got a test kit in the pipe with Wardlab). Really appreciate ya’ll offering up so much helpful insight and experience.
I also prefer cold short dry hopping, but post fermentation.
From everything I’ve been reading lately, the “short” dry hopping seems to be the way things are evovling. They “5-7 day” immersion on so many recipes seems to be turning into an artifact of brewing lore.
I’m sure you’ve experimented with this in many different ways. What was the reason you went with post ferment instead of tossing the hops in the ferementer?
If I am dry hopping in the fermenter (mind you, I am using conicals), I burp out the yeast that I want to reuse through the dump valve at the bottom of the conical before adding the dry hops. That way i can keep the yeast a bit more pristine and free of hop particles.
If I am using a lot of dry hops, I went back to transferring the beer to a secondary (more precisely, a bright beer vessel) before adding the dry hops. This keeeps me from plugging my racking arm in the conical. I am looking at some mods that will allow me to use the conicals for heavily dry hopped beers and not plug my racking arm or inline screen when kegging directly from the fermenter.
I imagine a floating racking arm would attach to your racking arm. That’s probably what I would try in that situation.