What size CO2 tank is appropriate?

I have almost completed a two year remodeling project that included a bar with 6 taps and moving my brewing operation from the kitchen to the garage.  I’m getting ready to build my keezer and I am certain the 5lb CO2 tank I have is not going to work with 6 kegs.  What size CO2 tank would you recommend for 6 kegs?

I recommend as big as you can fit in the space you have. Larger tanks are cheaper per lb to fill or swamp and don’t cost much more than a 5 lb. I have a 20 and a 10.

I would still keep your 5 lb tank so you can use that carbonate your beer separately but a 20 lb is plenty and still fits inside your keezer!

I now have a 5, a 10 and two 20s. They all have advantages on size, where you can put them, and $/Fill.

If I had to do it over, I would have 2 tens and the two 20s.

I have a 5 and a 20. If you have the space, definitely get a 20lb tank.

I have a 2.5 and 2 20 pounders.  The small one works great for parties and the 20s mean I never run out of gas.

Paul

5 can work but you’ll refill often and spend more per pound on gas. 20 is great if you have room. Since you’re building the kegerator, just plan to run the gas line out so you can keep the tank on the outside.

I started with the standard 5 pounder when i first got my kegging system about 3 years ago. I just bought a 20 pounder this week after i found out the cost difference in fill-ups. I figure I’ll keep the big bottle for everything I do around the brewery and the small bottle for bringing to parties and such. I have absolutely no regrets getting the bigger bottle.

Wow, you must not drink/brew much. I’m going through a 20 pounder in around a year. I brewed 38 four gallon batches last year, which is more than I plan to do this year, actually.

I run a 20# on the kegerator and have two 5#, one is my utility for carbing and travel the other is the backup.

I really meant that I have plenty of time to get tanks refilled without interrupting the flow but I don’t brew as much as I used to.  It is a bit tough to consume all you “can” brew when the only consistent drinker in the house is me.  I’m trying to brew less and drink fresher as well as drop a little weight.

Paul

If you have the space go with the 20#.  I f you need it to be mobile go with the 5#.  I have a 20# hooked up to the keg fridge and use the 5# for events and bottling.

Same here.  But it might be 3 20s and I think the 10 might be a 15.  So not really the same.  But it’s nice to have a couple back ups.  I’ve got three empties right now, but no worries.  One of the ones that’s not empty is a beer gas mix, which is nice to have but completely unnecessary.

I like having the 5. It’s perfect for parties.  It’s a real pain when I have to lug out a big tank for parties, which I’ve done twice last year.  I fill the five more often though.  I’ve been thinking of trying to exchange one of the 20s for a tank with a pick-up tube in it, but I’m not sure I want to take the risk of filling at home.

Thanks fo the advice.  I have plenty of room so a 20lb tank it is.  Time to go shopping.

I’d check with your gas supplier. I made the mistake of buying tanks online then found out the gas shop would have been cheaper and they took my shiny new ones in trade. Bye bye money and coolness

Jim - I know; too late now, but check your area for beverage service companies that can fill your tanks - lets you keep your nice new shiny bottles, takes minutes in most cases.

I am lucky in that I pay the same price per pound of CO2 regardless of cylinder size.

I am lucky in that I pay the same price per fill regardless of tank size. I have no idea why but the place I fill my Co2 charge ~19 bucks to exchange a 5 lb or a 10 lb tank.

I believe that I paid $9.00 for my last 5lb cylinder fill.  I would not pay $19.00 to fill a 5lb cylinder.  I would buy a 10lb tank.

I am fairly frugal with CO2, so 5lbs lasts a long time. I have always had a simple setup in which the kegs are stored in a refrigerator with picnic taps (this refrigerator/freezer holds my yeast bank, blank plating and slanting media, autoclaved starter media, and my hops).  I only open the valve on the cylinder during force carbonation and when the pressure drops to the point where I can no longer coax beer from a tap.  I used a 10lb tank with the kegging setup that I had before I took my extended hiatus from the hobby.  I could easily serve beer for two years between fills.  I am not a fan of “gassy” beer.

Just exchanged my conditioning tank for a full one. $8.75