Care to explain? I dont understand?
Says the guy who’s flippin’ everyone off in his profile pic.
And you think my post isn’t sarcastic? Hey look jjeffers, gullible is written in the ceiling!
dmtaylor gathers attention by posting things that are on the edge, same thing that Denny does with his “lazy ways” brewing. They try to establish a reputation for themselves with these initiatives and of course they enjoy the attention it brings them.
You southern boys need things splain’d a little more than usual, don’t ya? …|.
We need to be civil, guys. Sarcasm is ok, if it doesn’t get personal.
Best is notorious for malt that is a bit more acidic than other maltsters as well as having a few occasions where they inadvertently tainted their pils with Sauermalz.
In that case their malt sheets didn’t account for that mistake and people had low pHs.
Low mash pH caused by a particularly acidic batch of this malt. While it’s a 12L mat, I need to enter it into Bru’n water as a 18L malt to get semi accurate estimates.
If I were to use store bought RO water (not the filter into a jug type, the actual Distilled (RO) water that they sell in gallon jugs, think I would still need a ward labs test?
Distilled water is different from RO water in that it has no other ions present. The Great Value Distilled water from Walmart is actually distilled/deionized and has no other ions present. RO water on the other hand can vary due to maintenance of the filters on the RO system.
If you know the filters are new or have been recently replaced then you know the RO water is probably fairly decent. Distilled water, unless it’s false advertising, can be used anytime without a test.
Distilled water should be nearly free of any dissolved solids or minerals. As a general rule I buy Distilled because of my batch size and consider it a clean slate when I build my water up.
But a cheap TDS meter. The RO I buy locally is <8ppm
Yep. It’s a cheap and easy way to know what you’re working with.
You are dangerously close…
I forgot the first time and put my meter in my mash. Cracked the glass cover to the probe which fell in the mash. I did not want risk drinking glass shards so threw the whole thing away.
Update, brewed my first batch using Bru’n Water. 10 min into mash, pH was 5.6 so I decided not to screw around with it. Measured pH 20 min later, 5.3
Looks like Bru’n Water did a very good job for me
Awesome! Happy brewing - cheers!
I don’t know why this tendency occurs, but my observations show that mash pH tends to drift toward a pH of about 5.4 over time. If it starts high and you’ve implemented water adjustments that should have produced a lower pH, the pH does tend to move in that direction with additional time. A similar thing seems to occur when the initial pH is low and you’ve implemented water adjustments that should have produced a higher pH, it rises over time. I assuming there is some sort of delayed chemical reaction occurring.
The bottom line is that if you have implemented proper pH adjustments based on accurate water information, the predicted pH is fairly likely. If a measurement is off, wait another 10 or 20 minutes and recheck.
I do have one caution, if your water mineral and acid additions aren’t uniformly mixed into the WATER before adding the grain, you can easily have variation in pH across your mash bed. Add everything to the water first and mix it well before adding the grain. That is one less thing to worry about.