It just depends on what you’re making. Belgian strains can be slow to eat the last couple points as posted, so I like to give them time. Same with big beers. As for that strain, it’s a fairly low attenuator and should attenuate quicker (depending on OG, pitching rate and viability obviously). Shouldn’t be any reason it wouldn’t be done in less than 8 or 10 days. I just like to build in a few extra days to let the beer clear and the yeast to clean up.
I’ve never used that particular strain, but if it’s like most other English strains then I would guess it would be done fermenting in like 48 hours, so then I’d leave it for about a week just to be safe.
General guidance for any fermentation: Wait until all signs of fermentation have totally ceased – e.g., no airlock activity, krausen has fallen, beer has begun to clear – and then check gravity, wait at least 3-4 more days, check gravity again. If gravity stays the same after several days, you are safe to bottle or keg. If not, wait a few more days and repeat until it’s done.
I checked the gravity at 7 days and it dropped from 1.058 to 1.015. It’s still on the yeast because when I swirl the carboy, the blow off hose still bubbles quite a bit and there is a lot of creamy foam on the top of the carboy. That would tell me it is still working but the gravity readings indicate that it is probably done. Attenuation for this strain is 65-70. I currently have 74%.
Don’t know if you do it or not, but letting the beer warm up a few degrees after the first 3 or 4 days of fermentation spurs the yeast to eat more sugar and maximize attenuation performance. It’s a good practice.
Edit - Attenuation ratings for yeast are very rough ballpark figures at best, so don’t take them as gospel. The yeast company knows nothing about your grist, mash temp, yeast quantity, aeration methods , etc. It’s better to take good notes for a given beer and be able to reference them the next time you use the strain. FWIW I (and most brewers here) regularly exceed rated attenuation %.
The natural course for temperature in the carboy always rises as activity increases. I kept the temperature within the 65-70 degree range however it did rise to 72 degrees for a day or two aided by ambient room temps. So I guess the short answer is yes.
A question for you. Do you try to keep your primary within the yeast companies recommendations or do you always exceed them by 3-4 degrees? Also, based on the description above, would you rack to secondary now or leave it on the yeast?
I only rack to secondary to add fruit or occasionally bulk age a really big beer. Otherwise it’s just an outdated practice that has no good reason for doing it. Sometimes racking a beer to secondary that’s not done fermenting will stall or shorten the fermentation. Personally, I’d take the fermenter to the warmest room in the house and let it warm up for a few days, check gravity again, and if it matches your current gravity, you’re done.
EDIT - As for fermentation recommendations, I usually go on the low end or a little under at the start. For example, with most ale strains I pitch at 62F, hold 64F for 2 or 3 days (a little longer for big beers) and then allow the temp to rise a couple degrees/day up to room temp. Doing this keeps excessive ester production and fusels from occurring but the temp rise at the end encourages complete attenuation. Win-win.
So here is a twist. I racked to secondary, added caramelized figs about 12 hours ago. All the figs rose to the top and seem to be fermenting. There is activity in the airlock and bubbles crawling up the side of the carboy. This may not be done in time for the holidays. First time using WLP011. What a powerful strain.
Excluding racking to secondary seemed to be a popular sentiment when I started brewing in 2009. I’m not sure it was the prevailing thought at that time but it certainly was within a year or two.
