Outside of an upgrade brew kettle (mine doesn’t currently have a valve which I want), I don’t think I would need anything else.
1)Thoughts? Too expensive for a couple of Rubbermaids?
2) Is there any issue with using these plastic coolers for brewing? (BPA, phthalates?)
*I saw this on Rubbermaid’s site “Our coolers are not tested for use with hot liquids. We do not suggest using our coolers for home brewing purposes or as mash turns.”
I have the same mash tun. It’s good for most 5 gallon batches and can handle 10 gallon batches up to 4-5% (at which point it is full to the top). I would not use a cooler as an HLT because if the water cools too much you can’t apply heat. I use a burner and pot for HLT.
Another problem is that there is heat loss when you transfer to the cooler. With a cooler HLT, you must transfer twice. I just think it would be harder to predict the heat loss.
So I like the mash tun but there are times when I wish I bought a 15 gallon mash tun for big 10 gallon batches. You can buy a propane burner and pot with valve cheaper than the HLT portion.
Also, this is set up for fly sparging and I love batch sparging.
As far as the kettle valve thing, there are several online articles about how to install a weldless spigot onto your kettle. Tools needed are a step bit and some wrenches. And $20-45, depending on the type of valve you put on there.
I don’t know what the calculation is (I’m bad at math) but beersmith will factor in the heat loss caused by the temperature difference between the grain/cooler and strike water so you hit the right mash temp. I’ve found it’s pretty accurate so long as I give it an accurate temperature for the grain and cooler.
it is pretty accurate in my experience. it doesn’t take heat loss in transfer into account which is significant for me because I do not have a pump so I’m bucketing hot water from the kettle to the MLT but I’ve learned to account for that (+1-2 degrees)
I always overshoot by 5-10 degrees depending on the volume of water to account for heat loss and mash tun temp. I too use the kettle to bucket to cooler procedure. I also go cooler to bucket to kettle since I have just the one kettle. Second kettle would be nice, but I manage.
I had a rubbermaid and was not happy about how short its life was. It began bulging and cracking after only a few uses. I’m much happier with my rectangular cooler. So far no cracks, cross my fingers.
I see those cooler mashtun kits at HBS places and I cringe a little. yes, they have fancy false bottoms but it’s SOOOOO easy to build one of these CaE mashtuns.
So i bought a rubbermaid with a ss falsebottom when i converted to allgrain. After having 2 brews with stuck sparges due to grain getting under the false bottom due to stirring and shitty design, i have since made a denny braid and havent had a problem since. In the end the shape of the mash tun doesnt matter at all, but go with the braid denny suggests and never worry again.
I do also have issues keeping my MLT from leaking. Takes me about an hour every brew day to get it the way i want it and i test with hot water, big PITA.
If i had to do it again id just go via dennybrew.com
I’ve always tried to figure out what the need would be for a fancy engineered drain system if you are running off in batches. As long as it doesn’t get plugged who cares. Everything is in solution, and then run it off. I get it if you’re recirculating or sparging on the fly.
I use a false bottom now because I direct fire recirculate my MT. But a bazooka screen or Denny style screen is all you need for batching.
my SS hose took about 3 minutes and a pair of pliers & wire cutters to make. Would of been faster if i broke out the hack saw… its also a lot finer then a bazooka tube.