I’m going to be brewing an all-grain Alt bier this weekend. What water profile would you use to not impact the flavors greatly (especially to avoid any minerality flavors that I have had in my first few extract batches using Poland Spring). I used Reverse Osmosis water from Culligans my last two brews - one extract English Dark Mild and one all-grain English Dark Mild. The extract brew is being kegged this weekend and the all-grain is still fermenting, so I’m not sure how they’ll turn out. I’m fine driving a little out of the way to purchase the RO water if it’s the best option for me. I have some water additives if I went the Poland Spring route, but I think the RO water would be easiest IF you feel it’s the best way to go for this Alt brew. Thanks!
7.0 lbs Pilsner Malt
2.8 lbs Light Munich Malt
8 oz Caravienne Malt
8 oz Vienna Malt
4 oz 10 L Crystal Malt
2 oz De-husked Carafa II Malt
2 oz De-husked Carafa I Malt
1/2 oz Saaz Hops
3/4 oz Hallertaur Hops
3/4 Spalter Hops
1/2 oz Tettnang Hops
1/2 oz Saaz Hops
1/4 oz Tettnang Hops
1/4 oz Hallertaur Hops
1/4 oz Tettnang Hops
1/4 oz Spalter Hops
I’ll be pitching dry (maybe hydrated ahead of time) Safale K-97 German Ale Yeast
Thank you. I am completely overwhelmed with the Bru’n Water software at this point in my brewing career. I don’t know what values to input even with the helpful comments. I’m going to watch this old video (https://youtu.be/Pp_loAsmfXs?si=WD6Vy1QEc4TLpbxI) and see if I can make it happen.
Amber dry. If you have Simple Homebrewing, I wrote a chapter with a walk-through. If not, just ask. There are a lot of us who use it so we may be able to help you.
Hmm? Amber Dry might be a bit too much sulfate in an Alt. Amber Balanced is more in line with what brewers in Dusseldorf might experience from their tap water.
Bru’n Water has the following for a Dusseldorf profile (not boiled):
Calcium: 40 ppm
Magnesium: 15 ppm
Sodium: 25 ppm
Sulfate: 80 ppm
Chlorine: 45 ppm
Bicarbonate: 81 ppm
Probably the difference between this and what Homebrew_kev has is what parameter he has set in BeerSmith. You can set BeerSmith to use the Bru’n Water water algorithm.
There are articles online, a few go into water. The Altbier in Düsseldorf doesn’t have a lingering bitterness, so more chloride than Sulfate, 1.25:1 was recommended in one article… Pay attention to pH in the mash. The bicarbonate in the Düsseldorf water might be a problem, and the German Brewers could use Acidulated Malt or Sauergut to lower that value. US home Brewers can use Lactic or Phosphoric acid.
In Germany CaCl2 and Gypsum are allowed for water treatment. Those have to go into the water and not be added to the mash. The RHG just says water is allowed, but not any specific water.
I am sure you are probably right, but the city profile is a good starting point, IMHO. I start out with the city profile for the style and adjust if needed in the next brew.
This isn’t really what your asking, but for any new homebrewers out there I would recommend spending $35 on a water analysis report from Ward Lab - Water Analysis - Ward Laboratories, Inc. to get a baseline. I think you’ll be glad you did. A lot of people say they don’t bother with salts, but finally did and I’m glad I do.
Let us know what you ended up using and how you think it affected your flavors.
Well, I realized that I’m not ready for this level of brewing. That’s fine because I am just getting started. I’m just going to use Culligans Reverse Osmosis 5 gallon jugs and hope that does the trick. I asked them for a lab report of their water, but they didn’t have it on demand. Thank you all for the help! What was your next move upping the water game as you put more batches under your belt?
When you get Culligan water you can get either pure RO water or the RO water they sell that has some bicarbonate added back to it to effect taste… Ask for the pure RO water with nothing added and they will sell it to you. I found this out from the Culligan people when I asked for a water analysis of their RO drinking water.
No. From memory, I don’t recall how much they put in (it is probably different in different places) so don’t worry about it this time. RDWHAHB (Relax Don’t Worry Have A Homebrew)
Thanks, goose. I talked to them over the phone and asked them about this and they acted like they had no clue. They already know me as the new homebrew guy, but I haven’t been able to get a water analysis report from them. I might just send in a sample from their water to Ward at this point.
I know so many long time brewers, who make good beer, who know jack about their water except what they’ve learned over the years by intuition about their water source.
Even now after 26 years of brewing, I still largely treat my water fairly simple - get the Chloramine out by using potassium metabisulfite (I prefer that over a filter). Plug my numbers into Bru’n water to adjust my water with acid and limit my water salts additions and try not to be too crazy about it.
You’ll get to where you’re comfrotable when you get there!
I just sent samples to Ward today. When do you make these water additions? Right before striking the Mash? I see some people add before Mash In, I’ve read some make changes 15 minutes into the Rest if their PH is off. Just throwing additives in seems a little messy to me. Stirring properly in the strike water seems to be the best time, but I’ve never done it before.