Anvil Bucket vs. SS Brew Bucket

Anyone have insight on both?  SS is a hefty $80 more than the Anvil.  What do I get for the money? 
Pros/Cons of either?  Particularly around quality, transferring wort, valve assembly and cleaning?

I cannot speak to the Anvil. However, I do have a 7 gal SS Brewbucket that I like. It’s easy to clean, it’s easy to transport with the two handles, and the latches secure the lid very well.

The only con is the ball valve. It does not disassemble completely for cleaning. I’ve thought about replacing it with a valve that I can completely disassemble but I’ve not done it yet.

The dip tube is kinda clunky IMO. I quit using the dip tube and simply use the valve without it.

I’ve heard that about the ball valve on the SS.  Not sure why they would make one that didn’t disassemble easily.  I suppose you could always flush boiling water through it too.  Thanks for the feedback!

I only have the same brew tech minis, and really like them. I really wish the base was permanently mounted to the rest (7 gallon size has attached legs), the dip tube is very nice, and I really enjoy cleaning it. I wish the valve could be disassembled, and the o-rings on the dip tube are very easily cut. I’m thinking of adding a prv and a keg post.

I’m excited to see an Anvil in person, they look really nice. The price is really tempting.

I have SS Buckets, don’t have the Anvil.
Some differences, the brew bucket has a conical bottom, the Anvil has a flatish/dished bottom.
The conical bottom may make it easier to draw off clean beer, due to reduced surface area?(my half-a**ed theory)

The SS bucket handles fold down flat, the Anvil handles are fixed. Some users have reported having trouble fitting multiple Anvil fermentors in their existing ferm chambers.

The Anvil comes with a domed lid, the Brewbucket has a flat lid. The domed lid gives extra headroom for krausen. Domed lids are available at extra cost for the brewbucket.

I have 2 of the 7g SS Buckets, one of them the valve rotates fine and doesn’t leak. The other one the valve only rotates about a 1/4 turn before tightening up. If I loosen it enough to rotate freely it always leaks.
I just set the diptube/valve at about 9 o’clock then rotate it to 12 o’ clock to drain and tilt the bucket at the end.

I also have the SS Mini buckets. I hate the detached rubber bases. I wish they were 3.5 or 4g capacity to easily allow 3g of finished beer. Otherwise I like them.

Jim

You can disassemble them.  I don’t think it’s very necessary though.

I couldn’t get the ball out of mine. I quit trying when I saw an answer on the FAQ page that it doesn’t come out.

I recently got a Anvil SS bucket and have used it for the last two brews. I was using a carboy before and the bucket is a lot lighter when filled. Pros: light, easy to clean, 7.5 gals capacity, inside gal marks [not sure if accurate], domed lid, sturdy handles.  Cons: handles don’t fold,[not a problem if you have room], barb on valve is 1/2" [hard to rig up to 5/16" hoses on to keg]. My last brew I dry hopped and just used a auto syphon with a nylon bag one it and avoided the problem with rigging up to the valve. If not dry hopping and bottling I could use a 1/2" hose to the bottling bucket.

What is the threading on that valve?  I definitely do not want a 1/2" barb and would need to replace this piece.

The Anvil bucket barb  is not threaded it is straight with a O-ring. The barb fits into a nut that threads onto the valve and pushes the O-ring up into the valve. The threads for the barb nut are different than on a standard valve.  I tried to thread some 1/2" fittings I have on hand onto it but could only get a couple of threads on. I think the threads are different than on a standard valve, they are straight and NPT threads are angled.

I have both the BB Mini and the 4 gallon Anvil. I only use the BB when I need an extra fermenter. The biggest issue as others have pointed out is the rubber foot. Makes every task a much bigger PITA. I think the larger versions have welded feet. I do also like the slightly larger volume. I have less blowoff problems and can make slightly larger batches.

I’ve got a 4.4 mini-fridge for my fermentation chamber and right now I’m using 3 gallon better bottles.  Any idea if the 4 gal Anvil will fit in a mini-fridge?  Looks like those handle do stick out quite a bit.

Damn proprietary parts!  This is irritating.  Anyone draining from the Anvil to a keg through the liquid out post?  What are you using to convert?

Somebody at the conference, corner Anvil on this!

The first time I used the Anvil I rigged a 1/2" plastic barb. One end fit in 1/2" tubing from the bucket and then I pushed 5/16" tubing inside the barb. This worked for awhile until the 5/16" tubing fell out of the barb and made a mess and me mad. That brew and the brews after that I just gave up and syphoned out. Sure would be nice to use the spigot and valve especially when closed transferring to kegs. Maybe Anvil will make a replacement barb or valve in a smaller size.

Found this at brewhardware.com and just placed an order.  Should allow you to connect directly to the liquid out post of a Flare End QD without excess adapters.  1/2" barb to 1/4" flare.
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I had thought about a 1/2" fitting for the QD but didn’t think they made one. Thanks for the info, got one on order.

Great, looks like Blichmann came up with another option for us. You can use 1/2" or 1/4" hose for closed transfer to kegs. Thanks smalloy88.

Hi folks.  According to the manual for the Anvil 4 gal the valve is NPT (http://www.anvilbrewing.com/v/vspfiles/images/ANVIL%20Stainless%20Bucket%20Fermentor%20Manual%20V2.pdf), so shouldn’t you be able to use a female NPT to whatever sized barb you need attachment similar to this (Brass Barb 3/8" x 1/2" Female NPT)  and skip the included barb and barb nut?

Isn’t the Blichmann fitting mentioned above just a female NPT to 1/4" flare?