I typically use an immersion chiller to cool the wort but wondering if anyone ever lets the boiled wort just naturally cool on its own until temp is suitable to pitch the yeast?
Any negative side effects, or specific methods you have used and been happy with?
Thank you,
Rob
I do No-Chill with HDPE containers and have had no ill side effects off flavors or problems yet in about a total of 5 no chill brews. I have a 5 gallon and 2.5 gallon HDPE containers. I’ll never go back to using an immersion chiller
I sanitize the containers, then run the boiling wort into the container and use that to kill any other nasties that may have gotten into the container. Then roll it around and lay it on its side so the boiling wort touched the cap and the handle.
Another cool thing I learned to do to save time is before you add your Hops I run off my yeast starter from the kettle into my Flask and boil it later, cool it and pitch my yeast. Now your yeast starter is ready for when your wort is cooled enough on its own to pitch it at high krausen.
The big thing you must watch for with the NO-Chill method is your hop additions and I move my bittering from 60 minutes to 40 minutes into the boil. I don’t brew IPAs or any hop heavy brews so the additions are not a problem for me.
I think that’s about it
Avoid ordering an HDPE container from US PLASTICS. They were s bear to deal with when I needed confirmation on the type of container they sent me and they also sent me one without a cap. It’s a shame because I do go out of my way to buy Made in the USA product.
Check out the many articles and videos available they have been doing it in Australia for a long while
My two cents
The Australians have perfected the technique where it originated. Denny and Drew have dabbled from what I understand as have the guys at Basic Brewing.
No chill is fairly widespread practice these days. A Google search will render numerous articles and, if you’re a visual learner like me, you tube videos.
With a few best practices it’s a very viable method to use.
“No chill method” works … works best when it’s cold outside though. And there are drawbacks like continued AA utilization and potential concerns with DMS
If you have an IC though I’m not sure why you wouldn’t just use that. Super easy to sanitize and super easy to use.
as people said no chill works really well if its cold. i used to put it in the snow when the snow was deep.
also, it should work better for dark beers, the issues people claim with no chill are many, but one in particular is DMS.
Can anybody comment on chill haze? I expect you could never get good clarity with the slow cooling.
another thing about stout or very dark beers - chill haze doesnt matter.
I can not comment on chill haze, I brew mostly darker beers but I will say that DMS has not been a problem at all. Myself and tons of other No-Chill brewers have not experienced issues with DMS. Definitely tons of great information out there to check out before you jump in
I think Drew would tell you it works well when it’s not cold. Pasadena isn’t exactly arctic!
You get no more chill haze with no chill than you do any other way.
+1
Look up the Basic Brewing channel on YouTube. They have been using the no-chill method quite regularly with a wide variety of beer styles.
Seems like lots of speculation, but only a few who have tried it. You dont need cold weather. You dont get chill haze or DMS. Late hops do need to be treated differently than you otherwise would. Botom line is it makes great beer, just like any number of other methods.
Thank you Denny,
This method has simplified my brew day exponentially and saved myself tons of money on a big bad IC (my ground water in town is around 72 degrees mostly year round). And also my water bill. If your like me and do a number of different sized batches all that water usage can really add up. And to add to the fact that your yeast starter is already taking care of basically after you finish mash out is a win win. When the beer is at pitching temp your ready to pitch that starter at high krausen and get that good start to the fermenting process.
I have experienced nothing but positives from this brew style. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to using an IC
Hey! I’ll have you know, the high yesterday was only 72°F!
I’ve been no chilling for many years. No issues with chill haze. My garage can get to 35c in summer and I’ve fermented no chill beers up to 9 months after cubing with no issues. Really hoppy beers need some modifications but for standard hoppy beers pretty much the same ( for me anyway ). One of the best things is double batches, where you can do a blonde ale and add steeped crystal and roast malts to one of the cubes to get 2 different beers on one brew day
I’ve done it, makes more sense on some beers as opposed to others due to handling hops. While I haven’t gotten DMS it could be a potential concern to beware of depending on the malts you use, boil time, etc. If you have an IC not sure why you wouldn’t just use that unless you don’t like using the water.
or are being heavily encouraged not to us a lot of water.
For me I’m trying to figure out if at all what are the benefits of using an IC. If you can make the same great beer everyone else is making and cutting out a big step out of your brew day.