dry hopping schedule

I am starting to want to try dry hopping and have a couple questions. First I assume when the dry hop schedule says 4 days or 5 days that means add the hopps 4 days before botteling or 5 days before botteling- coerrect?
Second - what is the harm if you were to add hops in the seconday for a week or two? I would think that just gives the hops more time to soak into the beer- or am i off on this?

Thanks guys-
Jim

the concern is the flavors that will steep into the beer. too much time MIGHT (big might there) cause some ‘grassy’ or ‘green pepper’ like flavors and aromas to infuse into the beer. However there is plenty of anecdotal evidence to the contrary including my own. I regularly dry hop in the keg and leave the dry hop charge there for 2-3 weeks until the keg kicks with no perceived grassiness.

and correct answer is to try it and find out for yourself though.

All of this!  I’ll just add that I dry hop in the keg also, and the hops stay in for 2-3 months with out problems.

so either you drink 4 times slower than me or brew 4 times as much. (or some combination)

Maybe a combination.  Usually 3 kegs on tap at once (sometimes 2, sometimes 4).  2-3 beers a day.

depending on how much of a dry hop character you want, pale ale - IPA - Double IPA etc your dry hop size and amount of dry hop charges may vary.

When you dry hop in the keg, do you need to leave at fermentation temps for a few days or can you refrigerate and put on CO2 as soon as it is in the keg?

You are correct. If a schedule says 5 days, it would be 5 days before you bottle. But I would rack it onto the hops when you transfer to the secondary. Like stated above, about possible off flavors, it’s a big might. I’ll have 5 or 6 ounces in the secondary for two weeks with no ill effects.

It usually sits at room temp for a couple days to carb (with the dry hops in it), but not always.  Either way seems to work.

I dry hop usually 7 days in keg @ room temp while I carb before putting into the kegerator, and usually leave the hops in since I use a dry hop canister.

EDIT -  http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/Dry-Hopper-with-twist-cap_p_155.html

I highly recommend the longer (18") one, for its much bigger capacity. It also doubles as an excellent vessel for coffee beans, fruit, wood chips, etc.

This is a summit saga IPA clone im working on. 1oz each went into the secondary citra and amarillo. Im guessing I will be ok.

This is a pretty good blog post from Bertus on brewing IPAs. He notes making your homebrew dry hopping equivalent to a commercial brewery… to scale of course.

http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/08/how-to-brew-better-ipas.html

Me too, what a life, eh?

Jon,
I’m at work now, so I can’t measure my ale pail, does the 18" version fit in a ale pail. Just bottled my IPA with 4oz dry hops, and don’t want to go through that again without something to contain the hops. I have bags but this looks really efficient and easy to use.

I don’t know -  I doubt it.  It’s really made for a corny keg. Works great for that. I used paint strainer bags for years though, and had good luck.

Giant tea balls work well too. Search around to find a good price. Last time I bought one it was only $5. Asian grocery stores often sell them too.

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Locking-Strainer-Infuser-Diameter/dp/B003FCMCMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1407182356&sr=1-1&keywords=giant+tea+ball

Thanks Steve and Jon, think I will measure when I get home and decide from there

+1 to both of these. I have the 18" for corny keg and its awesome, when im dry hopping etc in carboys i use nylon bags (aka paint strainer bags) they also work great.