So, here is my next attempt when my keg is done. Probably in a few weeks. I am going to try a 2.5 gallon batch, so numbers were cut in half. My first question is this, in the recipe it states that the dry hop is 14 days. Is that 14 days after fermenting, or put it in the fermenter initially and wait 14 days? After this, I am going to scale way down with my recipes and do much simpler beers to start. I think part of my issue is that I am jumping into the deep end with way too many ingredients, making it very likely that something is getting messed up. I am going to simplify my processes and get the methods down first. Then move into more advanced recipes. SMaSH recipes to start and use the hops that will hopefully be growing in my backyard. LOL. Anyway, if any of you would like to take a look at the recipe, here it is. Remember, all the numbers are cut in half.
As always, any comments or input would be welcome and appreciated.
I’m reading the dry hop additions in the recipe as being after the boil.
I also decided many years ago to “simplify” my recipes and concentrate on my procedures instead. To do that, I also began brewing SMaSH beers. My efforts payed off. Now, my focus is on German and Czech beer styles. These styles, with little exception, are rather simple styles that brew very well in my brewery.
I thought it was a bit of a longer time for it myself. What, if any, changes would you make? I have all the ingredients already, but everything but the pale 2 row I had to buy more of than I needed. So, in your opinion, is there anything I should add or subtract? Anything you would suggest that I get to add?
That’s a ridiculous amount of melanoidin, also. I’d cut it back to maybe .25 lb. If it was in there at all. I’d cut the dry hop time back to 5 days warm, 2-3 days if you can do it cold. This is one of those recipes where you have to know enough to know what’s wrong with it.
That recipe also calls for whole cone hops or leaf hops, which require significant process changes relative to pellet hops. If you are trying to dial in your process, stick with the hops you plan to use most of the time. I recommend pellets because there are a lot more kinds available. I am sure you can find another Space Dust recipe that uses pellet hops.
Very nice. Thank you for that. I don’t know much so I am willing to listen to any and all input. So, if I was making a half batch, or 2.5 gallons, I should all but eliminate the melanoidin? I bought a pound of it, I think, but if I can get a better end product not using it, or just using a small amount, I am ok with that too. I also thought that 14 days was a pretty long time. I am going to try something with my kegerator to see if I can increase the inside size to fit my fermenter bucket that way I can cold crash and control the fermenter temp, so what would the temp be if I dry hopped cold?
Thank you again for the input, I really appreciate it.
You are correct, I am using pellets. I will be growing hops, or at least trying with the help of my wife, so whole cone may be in my future. Thank you for the input, I will see what I can find. I bought all the ingredients halved in the recipe I posted, but I am sure I can find one that is similar.
Also, having looked at the link you provided, other than the one malt, the ingredient list seems to be the same. I am assuming the C15 is the same as the Crystal 15L and the dextrapils is the same as the Carapils in the recipe. And the hops are the same as in the recipe. Am I wrong? Not trying to be a wise ass, asking a serious question
I’d leave it out. The original recipe doesn’t have it, and it can give a strange maltiness to the beer if overused. I like to dry hop at 35F, but anything between there and 45 will probably be OK.
For simplicity you can dry hop at whatever temperature your beer is at. The results may be a bit better at low temps, but many people just use their final fermentation temperature. I would say don’t worry about it for this batch.
I’ll say that definitely depends on your climate. I’ve had wet summers where I followed the University of Maryland extension suggestions and still lost everything to powdery mildew and root rot. Other years things worked out in spite of my poor maintenance thanks to good luck and good weather. After dealing with disease and bugs, the part when you cut them down when they feel right and throw them in a food dehydrator and a vacuum sealer doesn’t seem hard at all.
Point taken. I live in prime PNW hop country and they grow like weeds. I’ve gotten as much as 23 lb. from a single Cascade plant in a year. Ive been trying to kill it off for 8 years or so and the sucker just wont die!
Just got to work and am going thru all the messages. Thanks to all who replied and put input into this. I am going with Denny and leaving the malt out that I don’t need. I want to make this as simple as I can, as this is going to be my last batch with anything more than one or two hops. I need to get a handle on my methods first, then I can hit the harder stuff. Gotta crawl before I walk. LOL.
Thanks again to all who had input, all this is great info and I am taking it all in.
I have to believe that the San Francisco Bay area won’t be prime growing weather, but what the heck. I am going to give it a try and see. I am in it to win it now. LOL. Thanks to all for the input.
Hops were grown in rhe Bay Area before the 1960s or so. Now those farms are housing. PNW is the best place to grow hops, but not the only place where they grow.
Sounds nice, although I’m not in it for the yield (or at least that’s what I tell myself). But drying 23 pounds of hops per plant would be a far bigger challenge!