First one down, thoughts on second

General Homebrew Discussion
1

OK guys, I am pretty fired up, I am down to my last few glasses, so I am in search for my next attempt.  One of my go to beers is Racer 5.  I really like that, and have found a clone recipe and am looking for thoughts.  This one uses liquid yeast, which I am not familiar with.  Here is a link to it:

Anything I can do to maybe improve on it?  I usually use a single fermenter bucket, but have another one I can use if needed.  The first beer I made I dry hopped in the first bucket.  I am pretty excited to try out this recipe, unless you guys have anything you like better or have any suggestions on improvements

Or is it cheaper to buy the ingredients listed here:

https://beerrecipes.org/Recipe/5227/racer-5-ipa-clone-5-gal.html

Also, Morebeer has a Blind Pig clone that I was going to give a shot as well, but I don’t have room for two kegs.  I am thinking of bottling that one and have it on reserve for a change once in a while.  Thoughts.

Thanks to all who have helped me along the way, I really appreciate it

RR

2

Both recipes kind of suck.  Neither one uses nearly enough hops.  Hold on for a few minutes, I’ll write you a great recipe…

UPDATE: Bear Republic says Racer 5 is a showcase for both Cascade and Columbus hops.  I looked up several recipes online, gave me some ideas.  Funny how most of them don’t even include Columbus hops.  So anyway… try this, should get you pretty close:

Racer 5 IPA Clone (Extract w/ Grains)
5 gallons
OG=1.074
FG=1.020
ABV=7.1%
IBU=67
SRM=7.5

4.5 lb Light DME
2.0 lb Wheat DME
1.0 lb Cane Sugar
10 oz Crystal 20
10 oz Crystal 40
1.0 oz Columbus (13.5% alpha, 60 minutes)
1.25 oz Cascade (5.9% alpha, 60 minutes)
1.0 oz Columbus (dry hop)
2.75 oz Cascade (dry hop)

Several yeast options, you can try WLP051, Wyeast 1272, or, for a dry yeast, I would recommend W-34/70.  I picked the latter based on consistent attenuation with the other two, in the 72-74% range.  Other yeasts including BRY-97 will attenuate much higher, which is fine if you plan for it but won’t be consistent.  Over time, maybe try all three of my picks, I’m honestly not sure which one will turn out the best.  Both the WLP051 and W-34/70 are actually lager yeasts but they ferment great at warm temperatures, no need to cool down the fermenter much.

With the liquid yeasts, you’ll need to make a yeast starter.  Whereas, with the dry yeast, no need for any special treatment, just sprinkle it in (one of the big advantages of dry yeast!).

Use distilled or RO water with 1/2 tsp gypsum.  Steep the crushed grains while heating up 6 gallons of water until it hits 170 F, then pull out the grains.  Remove from heat, add the extract and sugar, stir to dissolve, bring to the boil.  Add boil hop charge, boil 60 minutes.  Cool and ferment about 65-68 F until activity slows down quite a bit, approximately 4 days, then add the dry hops and wait another week before packaging.

You can do the entire fermentation in the first bucket, no need to transfer until the day you bottle or keg it.

Enjoy.  Cheers.

3

I used to visit Bear Republic in Healdsburg all the time. I don’t live far from it, and I used to have family in Santa Rosa. Racer 5 was (and is still?) a great IPA.

Based on my perception of where you are at in your homebrewing career, I would stick with dry yeast. Using liquid yeast opens up a can of worms, especially in a higher-gravity wort.

If you go 1272, IME that strains needs a LOT of headspace…

4

Pssst…BRY-97!

5

Wow!!!  Awesome write up.  Thank you so much.  This going to be my next try.  I will take a ride to my nearest Morebeer and see if they have the needed ingredients.  If not, I will get them going on the internet.  I really appreciate your time and writing that up.  Awesome!!!

6

You got that right, I really like Racer5.  Blind pig is another fave, and the tap room is a nice place to have lunch and a few beers.  Also, you are spot on when you say dry yeast is probably better.  This is my second keg, so I am truly a novice.  But this is going to be fun because I get to actually get the ingredients instead of just ordering a kit.  I am really excited.

Now, on to cleaing the keg and parts with PBW, then store until I am ready to go.  Hopefully next weekend.

Thank you both for replying, i really do appreciate it.

By the way, I am in South San Francisco, if you are every in the area, give me a holler, we can grab a beer or three.  LOL.

RR

7

I have a Morebeer locally, and I checked Northern Brew.  Each has some of the ingredients, but Northern Brew has everything but the sugar, and I am guessing if it is just cane sugar I can use what is in the house now.  C and H I believe is the brand of choice for us.  Are these the best places to get the ingredients or would you guys recommend somewhere else?  Any input there would be helpful.  Thanks again to all

8

This is kinda interesting.  It has oak wood chips as part of the dry hopping. Don’t know if that would be good or not, but first time I have seen it.  Plenty of hops in this one.  Just looking around, kinda fun to see the differences

9

Those are both great shops to order from.  I think I’ve ordered from Morebeer most of the times these days, they seem to run a couple bucks cheaper per batch on average overall, but I haven’t ordered for a while.  I try to help out the local homebrew shop when I can, been there a few times this year.  If you have a local shop, I’d suggest supporting them.  I usually buy enough ingredients for 2-3 batches at a time.  But hey that’s just me, you do you.

10

In looking at MoreBeer’s web site, they don’t have Crystal 20, but they have Cara 20.  Is this the same?  Can they be switched out in the recipe above?  Thanks to all

11

Yes, these are equivalent.  Different companies call them different names but they are basically the same stuff.

12

OK, so here is my MoreBeer cart.  Am I missing anything? 
DME10Y
3 lb Light Dried Malt Extract

$14.99
Quantity:
1

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DME10X
1 lb Light Dried Malt Extract

$5.99
Quantity:
1

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DME10A
1/2 lb Light Dried Malt Extract

$3.49
Quantity:
1

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DME40X
1 lb Bavarian Wheat Dried Malt Extract

$5.99
Quantity:
2

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GR381CM
Great Western Crystal 40 Malt - 1 LB Milled

$2.79
Quantity:
1

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HCOL2W
Columbus Whole Hops 2 oz

$2.19
Quantity:
1

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HCAS2W
Cascade Hops (2 oz.) (Whole Cone)

$2.79
Quantity:
2

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GR334CM
Dingemans Cara 20 (Caravienne) - 1 lb Bag, Milled

$2.79
Quantity:
1

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AD312
Cane Sugar - 2 lbs.

$3.99
Quantity:
1

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WM10
Gypsum - 2 oz

$1.99
Quantity:
1

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DY62
Saflager W 34 70 Bohemian Lager Yeast (Fermentis) - 11.5 g

$6.49
Quantity:
1

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13

Ordered everything for pickup at my local MoreBeer.  I am hoping they have everything there and i have not misordered, but I guess I will find out.  LOL.

14

They did not have everything, but they have a warehouse in California so I can pick it up on Friday.  The guy I talked to suggested a different yeast, US-05.  So, hopefully I will pick it all up on Friday, and brew Saturday.  By next week or so I will have it in the keg and ready to try.  Thanks to all who replied.

15

US-05 would increase the attenuation by about 10%, thus increasing the ABV by about 1%.  An 8% ABV beer would be stronger than intended.  If you do this, decrease the DME by about 0.5 lb.

16

OK, that may be easy as one of the dme packets is 1/2 pound.  Can I do that?  Or do I have to figure out an amount for both that adds up to 1/2 pound?  Sorry for the stupid questions, but I am really trying to learn as much as I can.  I want to try and stay away from kits, because eventually, I want to get into trying new stuff and different combinations.  But I feel I need a good base first.

Thanks again for all the info, i really appreciate it.  RR

17

Yeah, just skip that extra 1/2 pound of light DME, that’s easiest.  It won’t make a detectable difference in flavor.

18

Awesome.  Thanks.  I might just go with it and see.  I have had 8 percent before, if the flavors arent that bad then what the heck.  LOL.  I just read Pliny the Elder is an 8 percenter.  It will be a game time decision unless I read something here that really hits me not too.

Thank you again for all your help.  I am really grateful.  RR

19

As I start to get all my stuff out and ready, I realize that my stainless steel pot is only 5 gallons.  Your instructions say to heat up 6 gallons. but would it be ok to just fill it to about 4 gallons to do the brewing and top it off when I move it to the fermenter?

20

I wouldn’t even fill it that full.  3 gal. is gonna pretty much max you out once you start boiling.