I was just wondering what you all do for an IPA. ( West coast or NeIPA ). Who does whirlpool hopping in addition to dry hopping and why?……. Or do most just dry hop? With the new Yakima survivable compounds info, it has me thinking. And then of course the question of active fermentation DryHop plus or minus post fermentation DryHop.
NEIPA, I guess people are doing both. West Coast, I’d stick with only the dry hop.
I had the same question a while back, for WC IPA actually, and by the comment the best way is dry hop only, bitter addition, flameout maybe and then dry hop, no whirlpool, and this to a IPA and the result was really good, as for NEIPA, for experience, Bitter addition, I like a little more bitter in my beers, whirlpool or hopstand, dry hop during the fermentation and then dry hop after the fermentation, I brewed a APA doing this, remove the bitter addition in the start, gonna carb tomorrow and let see the result
I’ve always done a flame out addition of hops for my IPAs and for many other styles. Right after that addition I WP for 5-10 minutes (maybe longer depending on what I’m brewing). Then let settle for several minutes. for IPAs and for some other styles I then dry hop.
So, yeah, I’m not sure why you wouldn’t do both for any beer you are trying to get hop flavor or aroma into. I also don’t think WP hops are anything “new” or exclusively for NEIPAs.
A few years ago, I stopped doing WP in favor of flameout and dry hopping. I found it gave me more of what I was looking for and was easier for me than WP.
With dry hopping alone, I think something obvious would be missing. It’s important to lay a good foundation of hoppiness on the hotside. I have sampled plenty of my IPAs before dry hopping, and they’re pleasantly hoppy from hotside hopping alone.
I’ve landed on doing a large addition (4-6 oz) with 1 minute left in the boil, then immediately chilling at flameout. This is all I do for my hazies in terms of adding hops on the hotside; for my WCs, I do additions earlier in the boil for bitterness.
Something I do not do anymore is a whirlpool stand after cooling the wort some. I was picking up way too much god-awful polyphenolic bitterness and hop burn, especially from the 170-degree range.
I do flameout and dry hop only. I don’t do a hop stand or whirlpool hopping. I don’t think any thing is missing flavor or aroma wise.
A few years ago I tried several batches with hop stands. I thought those batches had a different flavor profile and I preferred flameout and dry hop. It’s also a bit easier.
I like to do first wort hopping, a 60 minute addition and a 10 or 15 minute addition. I stopped doing and flame out or whirlpool additions and have been cold dry hopping lately with better results.
Same! I’ve always been skeptical about flameout but I guess it works lol
I usually do both.
After several batches of hop stand experiments I have eschewed them completely. There were a few times I thought I liked the results well enough but too many times I got weird veg flavors and aromas.
Pretty much exactly what I do, too.
A lot of these comparisons might not be apples to apples. The definition of whirlpool vs flameout will depend on how long it takes you to chill and whether you’re chilling the entire kettle at once, getting it below 180 pretty quickly, or using a plate/counterflow chiller in line to the fermenter. But at a homebrew scale, whirlpool/hop stand is an optional step that is usually borne out of necessity on a commercial system.
Whether a steep at 180 is different than throwing hops in for 10 minutes at the end of the boil can probably be debated, but a long hopstand is something I also stopped doing.
I cool my post boil wort by running it thru the HERMS coil returning it to the kettle thru a whirlpool arm. So… since whirlpool is already happening I take advantage of it.
I have been very pleased with the outcome on those beers that call for whirlpool additions — usually an oz or two of Cryo hops at a 140F stop for 30 min or so. From what I understand, temps nearer boiling degrade the oils faster but 140F has been a nice compromise between a good resting place and the taste results.
I like to dry hop during active fermentation so the brief fermenter opening is offset by the CO2 production to reduce O2 uptake. I don’t like opening a keg after filling it but I have done it with unnoticeable degradation.
I do exactly the same here for my West Coast IPA’s. Don’t brew hazy ones as I think they can be a bit sweet for me. With my Black IPA, I do FWH and then don’t start adding any extra hops until the last 30 minute of the boil. I also add later additions before flameout.