Hop Bursting

Recently at the COOP Aleworks anniversary party, they unleashed a small batch IPA, with 24oz of hops in a 5 gal recipe.  Needless to say it was awesome, and gone in no time at all.  It got me thinking, and then Austin Homebrew has an 18oz hop value pack of 3oz each of Columbus, Warrior, Summit, Nugget, Galena and Willamette.  With the exception of Willamette, these are all high alpha varieties.  I’m thinking of brewing my usual 1.060 IPA grain bill, but hop bursting so the Warrior, Galena and Nugget go in at 5 mins, the Willamette at flameout, then dry hopping on the Summit and Columbus.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,

Never have tried a first addition at 5.
My hop burst schedules usually start at 20, then 15, 10, 5,0 and dry.

As to the hops, I might consider using some of that Columbus and Summit in the boil, as well as dry.
That said, I don’t have any experience with Galena or Warrior late.

Have fun. :slight_smile:

You need more time for the hop flavor to develop

http://wiki.homebrewersassociation.org/AmarilloPaleAleBeerDuJour
First hops at 15 minutes and more to follow.  I need to brew this again.
If you can’t get Amarillo go with another hop you like.

I’ve tried a few hop bursted beers without great results.  Recently, I’ve learned that the key to hop bursting is a hot stand.  Take a look at Ray Daniel’s 2009 NHC presentation for details.  Essentially, a panel of experts preferred beers that had a long, hot, post-boil, pre-chill stand of up to 80 minutes over beers that were chilled more quickly.

I’m going to try this with my next pale ale to see if I can finally get the hop flavor I’m looking for.

Sweet. 8)

I guess I would say that hop bursting can work without the hop stand,
that said, when used together they REALLY work!

Have fun!

This doesnt cause DMS issues?  I thought the object was to chill as quickly as possible.

Seems to me,
these techniques really apply for a particular style - IPA,
and not so much for the majority of other styles.

If your quest is to achieve ultimate infusion of hop flavor and aroma,
the hop burst, hop stand, and the dry hop are for you.

A brewer can break lots of “strict” rules on such a versatile and forgiving style.

You may wind up with late IBU contribution impossible to accurately calculate, you have to forget about your particular FO to pitch temp record, you end up with a discernible haze…a chewy hop character… :o…no matter, its an IPA! :wink:

Enjoy!

You want to keep the lid off, and this is after a vigourous boil. It is hot enough that the vapors coming off are keeping nasties out.  You want to chill as fast as possible for beers with pils malt, that is the difference.

Once you are done with the stand, chill as normal.  In my 10  gallons batches, it is down to about 175 after 45 minutes.  The best beer was made after a hop stand for flavor, and dry hopping for aroma according to Daniels at the NHC 2009.

I have made a cream ale that was no boil hops, all hops added at knock out.  Really tasty.

The kilning process removes SMM, the precursor to DMS, from most malt.  Pilsner malt is the exception b/c it’s lightly kilned.

8), can you describe if and how it was different tasting from your normal cream ale?

This might of been the first Cream Ale in 10 years. It was a knock off of Pelican Kiwanda Cream Ale.  The brewer says this is the way they do it, and get 25 IBU’s.  Seems to work, and you get flavor and aroma.

Could someone explain a bit this “hot stand”?  Someone mentioned a hot stand for flavor.  I’m not clear on this.  Basically, you just let the hot wort sit after the boil is through?  Hop additions are done when?

You can let it stand when done, with the lid off.  The hops that have been added in the boil can remain, and give some more bitterness, even when not boiling.  The hops added late will also give flavor and aroma.  You can add hops at knockout.  You can add hops at lower temps, like 180F for instance, and these give more aroma.

After 45 minutes I turn on the chiller water and proceed as usual.

If you add hops at flameout, and let them steep for 45 minutes, aren’t you losing aromatics?

Yes, but not as much as if they were boiled.  You can add more with dry hops if you wish.

Excuse me, what brewing software is this that you are using to upload your recipe to the wikihomebrew?

I read somewhere that various desired hop oils have flash points (between 100-180 F, I think), so a brief chill down after FO to get the wort temp below 170-180 F was suggested before adding the steeping hops.

I’ve been doing Hop Stands between 140-170 F for approximately 20-30 minutes.  I think it helps extract hop flavors and aromas, though the aromas are often lost/diluted by the CO2 outgassing during fermentation.  Dry hopping is a good way to get back some of the aromas, but at the cost of grassy flavors and less clarity.
What do you think?  Does the additional steeping time make a difference?

The only hop essential oil that has a flash point over 180F is Caryopholene (SP) at 200F, and this one has spicy charactor like black pepper.  The others are about 78F to 112F, which is why you can get the big aroma from dry hopping, and that is why you want to dry hop at room temperature.  When you rub hops between your hands, you are flashing off some of those oils due to your body temp and friction heat

I made a couple of beers with the last hop addition in the whirlpool for at least 40 minutes, after the wort had been cooled down to 100.  I was expecting more aroma than I got.

Flashpoints for the oils.

Farnesene = 79F
Myrcene = 104F
Humulene = 110.2°F
Caryophyllene =200F

From here:  http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2010/Hop_Quality-James_Altweis.pdf

The oils also are not very soluble, so that is probably why we dryhop for a week or more.