Anyone know if there’s anything special you need to do while hopping to get that fresh and strong kick of hops you get from Stone’s “Enjoy By” IPA’s?
Aside from delivering it fresh to the stores, is there a certain method they use? I’m wondering if I should be using hop leaves or anything else. Also, when you transfer from the boil to the primary, do you typically leave the trub behind, or would keeping it in the primary extract more of the freshness of the aroma and flameout hops?
Late hopping (within the last 15 minutes of the boil), whirlpool additions, and dry hopping. Also, you can try a hop stand where you let the wort cool to about 170, add hops, and let it sit for about 30 minutes before you cool down to pitching temps.
How does adding hops to a whirlpool differ? (I just like to know how the stuff works). Also, is there a recommended way to whirlpool if I intend to use an immersion chiller? I usually don’t whirlpool since I just catch the trub through strainer before I pour to the primary. Last, wouldn’t I risk infection by letting it stand too long uncovered? (I’m assuming I’d leave it uncovered as DMS is still coming out at this point). Appreciate the help!
If you keep the wort between 145-170 you’ll be fine. Most organisms die at above 140 degrees. Keeping the wort below 170 stops the Isomerization of the alpha acids in the hops. While not completely, although it allows for the flavor and aromas to come out while keeping the hop oils in and the bitterness down.
I tend to just add my hops at flameout when brewing a highly bitter beer. I then let the wort sit for 15 minutes before I turn on my chiller. You’ll get added bitterness this way. Letting the wort cool to 170 and then adding your hops and leaving for 30 minutes (turning the burner on every so often to keep the temp within this range) won’t add much if any additional bitterness.
The real trick is to use a boat load of hops at this stage. For my tastes about 6 oz. of hops for 6 gallons (in the kettle before transferring to fermenter) comes out amazing. I know there are some others on this board that will double that amount for a double IPA.
The only problem I’ve had in doing this is with hop selection. Some hops can really overpower a beer and leave unexpected tastes. Citra is one of those for me. I like to use it sparingly as a spice, per the recommendation from a local pro brewer, but not in heavy doses at this stage.
Closed transfers from primary into a keg allow for minimal oxygen pickup and purging of transfer vessels and lines with CO2. Keeps my hoppy beers nice and fresh for at least 6 wks in the keg.
My massively hopped IPA’s use no boil additions and roughly 12 ounces of hops at flameout with a hot whirlpool for 60-90 minutes. This is for a 3 gallon batch. I also dry hop with 1-2 ounces per gallon. The beer will have a very high measured IBU, but to my palate the bittering is a lot smoother than a traditional boil addition. But the hop flavor and aroma is insane.
To a more sane person, I’d recommend using 2oz/gallon in your whirlpool.
For my IPA’s, I just kill the heat on my stove and add the hops once all boiling activity has stopped. I leave it on the hot burner and put the lid on. I don’t add heat; I just let it ride with an occasional stir. I’m guessing that it starts at 200-205F and finishes around 170F. This is 3 gallons of wort on a glass stovetop in a 5-gallon clad-bottom kettle. Other setups may give different results.
I only do this for beers where I don’t care how high the final IBU count is. I use enough hops where the hopping rate and utilization are not the determining factor on the IBU’s in the finished beer. For beers that I want to target a specific IBU amount, I will add my IBU’s in the boil and whirlpool at 170F for my flavor/aroma additions.
appreciate all the feedback guys! seems like the best way is to add hops at the flameout.
im still new to the idea of whirlpooling, are you guys using those kettles with those whirlpool valves built in? How does that work exactly? Is it gas being pushed in to create the whirlpool?
I’ll be enjoying a nice “enjoy by” today. I’m wondering though, adding hops at flameout will definitely create a fresher taste, but do you guys think that’s what they do at Stone? I would assume that the high cost of hops and relatively low overall utilization wouldn’t be too economical from a business standpoint, or would it?
Minimize oxidation post fermentation as much as possible. It is amazing how fast hop character falls off after packaging. Even slight amounts of oxidation quickly ruin a hoppy beer.
I have used my hop rocket filled with hops as a “torpedo” to increase the aroma in a kegged beer. You purge the lines and hop rocket with CO2, then push the beer through the hop rocket into the purged receiving keg. Then you can switch the fittings, and push back into the first keg. Taste the beer, if you want more hoppy goodness, repeat the procedure.
Yum. That sounds like a good way to introduce some nice fresh hop oils into the finished product. Does it ruin the clarity at all with small hop debris?
Some haze is introduced, but yeast seems to be filtered out through the bed of whole cone hops. If you store it cold the hop poly phenols drop out, and you are left with a clear and tasty beer.
Yes, definitely. His dry hop procedure really improved my hoppy beers:
I’ve found a use for this practice though with multi-stage dry hops. Lately I’ve been adding the first dose in the primary while there is still a fair amount of yeast activity. This ensures the pellets will mix thoroughly, and any O2 in the pellets will be scavenged by the yeast. I’ll then rack to a CO2-purged keg, and dry hop the second dose there. Finally the beer is racked to a clean keg for serving. This might sound like a lot of work, but I find that it best replicates the typical commercial brewer’s use of a conical.
One thing not mentioned here is pH and mineral composition of your water. A bit of sulfate in your water will make the hops pop. Too much and they will taste harsh and unpleasant. Not enough, and you won’t be able to find them. Likewise, hop forward beers benefit from moderately lower pH, low enough to make the beer taste clean and refreshing as opposed to heavy and dull.