It’s time to put 4 taps in my fridge door. I don’t know exactly what I need, but I’m looking for a recommended supplier/retailer. Thanks.
I used this outfit.
Northern Brewer.com
Both sources listed are good outfits to deal with.
One design detail to note. If you are converting freezer on top fridger be sure to account for the hight of your tap handles in relation to the freezer for. I have see systems where the freezer cannot be opened with the handles mounted on the taps (or opening both doors at once.
Paul
Thanks for the tip. That would suck.
I currently run 3-4 kegs in my fridge. I have a basic 2-gauge regulator. Any reason I should want to replace it? Are there any tutorials or videos demonstrating how to install taps in a fridge door?
it’s pretty easy, pick your spot take a hole saw big enough to fit the shank, drill the hole, insert the shank tighten the nut on the back side, attach the faucet hook up liquid line to inside of shank
How does the line attach to the faucet inside the door? Hose clamp? Or, is there some sort of connector that detaches the hose from the faucet? I’m guessing that when you drain a keg, there must be an easy way to disconnect the hoseline from the faucet, right?
The connector on the back end of the shank (where the hose connects) is called the tailpiece. Typically they are barbed, but you can buy a tailpiece with a 1/4" flare fitting which fits a swivel nut, allowing you to screw and unscrew the hose instead of pulling the hose off a barbed fitting.
Also, cut a piece of 1/4" thick plywood or something similar to sort of fit the inside cavities of the door panel where your shanks enter the fridge, to create a “backer board”. The shank will pass through the board as well (a 7/8" or 1" hole saw is needed). Then you can screw the tightening nut down against the backer board instead of just the plastic inside the door. It’ll let you tighten it down snugly without cracking the plastic.
This site does a good overview of the process, all the pieces and the process.
http://www.kegkits.com/kegerator2.htm
Paul
I bought parts from www.beveragefactory.com. Their prices seemed good. They have individual parts along with many options to buy a complete setup for homebrew or commercial kegs.
Thanks for all the responses!
A couple more questions…
I have the typical freezer-over-fridge unit. It holds 4 cornies and a 5lb CO2 tank snugly. Assuming I will need all of the beer lines to be the same length, how long should I cut them to allow for opening the door periodically? 7’-8’?
start with 10’. you may want to shorten them to balance your system and avoid glasses full of foam. but it’s a good start. you should also then be able to determine the shortest length you can open the fridge with.
Thanks.
At 10’, I’d be looking at about a 20PSI serving pressure depending on the hose ID, no?
Since the kegs will be under continuous pressure, will they become overcarbed over time? As my system is now (cobra taps), the kegs are under pressure, but I keep the valve to each keg closed until the serving pressure gets weak. Maybe this is not a concern?
With the new draft system, I guess I will have to force carbonate individual kegs over several days at whatever the serving pressure is since all the kegs will be under the same serving psi? Make sense, or is there another way?
Kegs under continuous pressure will equilibriate a predictable carbonation level according to temperature and pressure.
See here
http://www.kegerators.com/articles/carbonation-table-pressure-chart.php
12lb at 38F is suitable for most beers it seems.
I’m just setting up my own kegerator, but I’m sure that a 10’ beer line does not need 20lb serving pressure. Line ID matters too, 10’ would be for 3/16" ID line. 1/4" line would require much more because there is less resistance.
http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=455
I used that and it rocks!!!
It sounds like 3l16 ID might be the way to go for the beer lines?
Also, are all-stainless steel parts recommended, i.e. anything that comes in contact with the beer?
I like stainless, but it’s not required.
3/16 is usually fine for serving lines. and stainless is fine, I like brass for my faucets though.
Any issues with keeping my CO2 tank out side the fridge? Will the fluctuating air temp in my garage cause pressurization issues?
Last question, I’ve seen connectors that allow you to easily remove your beer line from the cornie’s QD without having to deal with pulling the line off the barb? What are these called?
No problem keeping the CO2 outside the fridge, that’s what I do.
Are you talking about the cornie connectors that have threaded fittings, so the barb stays in the hose but you can switch from ball to pin lock? Like these flare fittings from morebeer?