B -
What’s the logic behind the 45/45/10?
Seems that if you go with your recommended dose of SMB, the Brewtan will be too low…
My calculations below
If I were to start from zero, for a 19L (5g) batch, I need about 33L of water (some may need less), and for a 30ppm (mg/L) SMB dose, you need 1g of SMB (or KMB)
The Brewtan B recommended dose is 2-6g/hL, so 0.67-2g for 33L of water. I use 1.5g
I do not have any recommendations on ascorbic acid. I use 1g.
If combined, this will be 28.5%/28.5%/43% (rounded to 30/30/40), or if going with 1g Brewtan, it will be equal parts
I am now personally using 0.5g SMB (or KMB)/ 1g AA/ 1.5g BB =, which would be 17/33/50.
All these dosages(well I know for a fact the AEB ones) are not assuming deoxygenated water, or RO. So, those ratios may/can need to be tweaked a bit. That and when they are partnered you have some overlap, and also need less, again just my opinion. Hit me up if you want more details. 8)
Well, but I mean building your own with gallovin to verify that you get the same result as the SBT, which doesn’t seem readily available for homebrewers. Brewtan B is designed for beer but you seem to have better results with the SBT, right?
I know was just giving you a hard time. I can say with certainty it is gallovin in SBT.
If you can get your hands on some of it. I would say it would probably be worth playing with. I saw better results with sbt, yes.
Looking to get more involved in the dialogue around this method. I am up-to-speed on the majority of the crazy threads as well as the other applicable sites, so I am just going to jump in with few inquiries on some of the mechanics (rather than the theory). Most of the questions below are not solely applicable to hot side oxidation, however it this topic that served as the catalyst for the relevant changes I am considering.
Purging air- Anybody experiment with purging lines and pump with CO2? Unnecessary extreme?
Mash Recirc - Interested in perspectives regarding commencing your recirc immediately after dough-in or letting it sit static for a period (assuming you hit your first desired infusion temp) before starting your recirculation?
Hochkurz - Are people finding this valuable for ales as well?
Lautering (Multiple vessels) – Are you filling through your valve on the kettle or using your tubing placed to the bottom? How slow of a transfer rate equates to ‘gentle’ when no-sparging?
Spunding- Looking for your opinions … For ales, is it recommended to transfer at 6-8 gravity points before FG or does that just leave too much yeast behind and you’re better off taking it to final gravity and transferring on top of a priming solution?
Quick side note – Sincere thanks to the fellas that were brave enough to poke the nest and more importantly openly share it. Independent of whether or not this method works out for me or not, there are a ton of great insights here no matter how you brew.
I purge pump, lines and grist as I mill it. If you have the means I don’t think it’s pointless.
I recirc the entire time. I use a HERMS system.
I hochkurz everything. 30/30/10, 72/72/77 is my standard mash. With ramps it’s about 20 minutes longer than a standard 60 min mash with a mash out. For me it’s a no brainer with all the benefits.
I use a hose at the bottom of my kettle. I have a bottom fill port in my BK, but I have not implemented it yet. Keep it easy until you get the hose opening covered and you will be good to go.
I spund my ales at 6 points high, and lagers at 4.
Thanks Bryan. I assume you meant 62/72/77.
Have you experimented with a protein rest at all? Any upside concluded?
For your ramps in temp do you increase your flow a touch through the HERMS to ramp faster than slow it back down again for the rest? For a 5 gal batch what is a respectable time from 62 to 72 and how much difference does ramp time make?
Question for Bryan… to clarify, do you think that using Antioxin SBT would be better then a homebrew mix of Gallovin, Nameta and AA ?
If a person had access to both, would the A-SBT be the better purchase?
Great questions. Having never put them side by side I can’t answer that. My hunch is no. Maybe the “homebrew” version would give more flexibility for system tailoring. Although I use the SBT as is and really like it.
I don’t know if this is applicable or maybe just a personal preference but is there brewing software that is better for low oxygen brewing. I am looking at changing what I am currently using and don’t want to have to do it twice. I am referring to software that you enter your recipes into and not the water spreadsheet. Love all the talk and and can’t wait to get my first lodo batch in. Thanks!
We have a brewing sheet, but it’s more hands on( but way more accurate because of so) but it’s certainly not for everyone.
My best advice is to pick one that works for you. Low oxygen is going to net you about 20% lighter wort, and I would say tinseth is about 5ibu too bitter. But besides that it’s all the same.