IPA hopping technique survey/poll?

IPA hopping technique survey/poll?

Just wondering what people most often do for their IPAs and why?
  • Boil (±flame out) hops and nothing else.
  • Boil (±flame out) hops and dry hopping.
  • Boil (±flame out) hops and whirlpool/hopstand
  • Boil (±flame out) hops and whirlpool/hopstand plus dryhopping
  • Other
0 voters

If flameout and whirlpool/hopstand hops are different answers, could you clarify? I’m not sure which I would be doing.

In my mind,  flameout is a zero minute addition and then you immediately cool to pitching temperature. Whirlpool/hopstand is an addition at or after zero minute where you let the hops steep at some temperature for sometime before rapidly cooling. (With or without stirring or pump whirlpooling).

Bittering, flameout, and dry hops for me.

I tried hopstand a couple of times but it was difficult to hit my temperatures right which led to inconsistent results. Plus, I am all about shortening my brew session length. I don’t brew IPAs that often so I just go with what works for me.

I brew IPA a lot, but I seldom do whirlpool hops.  I didn’t seem to get anything I can’t get from dry hopping.

I’ve been doing the whirlpooling thing lately, but I’m not positive that it’s necessarily much better than flameout & dry hopping alone.  Actually if memory serves, I did whirlpooling without flameout on my last batch.  Plenty of hop flavor and aroma, but like I said, not sure if I might have gotten the same results with just “regular” flameout instead of whirlpool.  Meanwhile, nothing can replace dry hopping, which I’d always use in an IPA.  For APA though I might skip dry hopping (personally) and only do flameout or whirlpool, one or the other, probably don’t need to do both.

I’ve never been convinced that is with the time on a homebrew scale, when you can chill your wort down to 100 F in under a few minutes. Im planning on replicating the brulosophy experiment on it to be safe later this month though.

I like dry hopping in the keg, and usually do a 60/10 minute addition on brewday.

60min, a large charge with 10-20min left in the boil, and then a big charge once I hit 185df and then whirlpool for 30 min.  dryhop after fermentation is complete.

Lagers - 60 min boil addition and possibly late boil additions (style dependant). No whirlpool/steep or dry, with the exception of ‘IPLs’.

Belgian ales - same as above, ie., kettle only additions.

American ales - 60 min boil addition, all/flavor aroma additions at cooling to 175F (steeped 20-45 mins), then dry hopped.

Same here, but have not done any Belgian styles as of yet

I make IPA a few different ways. My favorite is with a flameout addition only with a long, hot whirlpool. For others it is 60 minutes, plus whirlpool, plus dry hops.

I use a massive amount of hops (4+ ounces per gallon in whirlpool and 2 oz/gallon dry hops), but I’ve had issues with muddy/grassy/unpleasant hop character on and off. I’m still been playing with different variables to try to isolate the best approach for my tastes, but I’m not there yet.

I do 60, flameout, and an addition @180 while recirculating CFC to whirlpool in the kettle.  I stopped my 10 min addition because of the extra bitterness I get from my flameout hops. I find myself using less hops at 60. I usually dry hop about 15oz total in 12 gallons. I’m going to move to dry hopping in the keg. I bought a couple stainless hop tubes that I found to be useless for dry hops, but may make a great filter over the keg diptube.

jeez, your trub loss must be huge.

Pretty much any hopping technique should yield good beer.  Its pretty forgiving.  Myself, I haven’t used a 60m addition in years but I do like a few ounces at 15m but for a long time was WP only + DH.  I would say if one is questioning whether the WP is working or not, you need to be stirring or ideally recirculating.  That’s the key.  https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/handle/1957/34093

Anyone dealing with grassiness or harness you need to age out should look into polyclar.  I dose 10m to KO during the WP.  Between that, switching to english yeast (thanks Paul), and DH off the yeast/into bright beer (sorry Paul got that from some else ;D) I am at a point where I am happy.  Right now the struggle is getting the magic to last more than a few weeks.  Currently testing the effects of 10g sugar/boiled added a few hours prior to transfers as a redox agent.

I do 60 minute, 30 minute, then the bulk after boil- stir let settle 5 minutes then start draining through cfc which takes another 10 minutes. And then dry hop

I was going to add the yeast choice and only discussed hopping. I too agree as my IPA yeast of choice is 007. The sugar addition is interesting. My last few I haven’t used dry hops, just whirlpool and they were fantastic. I didn’t miss dealing w the dry. I will say that the dry hops add that extra happiness that makes it.

A 60 minute addition to bitter, a flavor/aroma addition at 5, and dry hop 4 days.

I was not blessed with being concise  ;D  Point I was trying to make was that I chased alot variables with my hopping technique/varieties/amounts only to find out other things actually took me where I wanted to go.  Whitbread here too.

One method that use is first wort hopping, no hops early in the boil (ie traditional 60 min bittering addition), flameout, and keg hopping.

I do 60 15/10/5/0 + dry

I pretty much use the same weight all the time for the 15min and later additions, then adjust the 60 weight to hit my IBU target.  Sometimes, that may include sliding it to 65 or 55 depending so I can use a “round” number addition instead of some weird amount.  Makes it easier for upcoming batches, and the thought of using .278 oz drives my semi-OCD brain nuts.