My current bottling process is to rack into a bottling bucket on top of my priming solution and then bottle using a bottling wand connected to the spigot. In an effort to get as much beer in the bottle as possible I have added a PVC elbow as a dip tube that is about an 1/4 inch from the bottom of the buckets. I’m almost positive that the dip tube, which has a 1 inch diameter is not completely filled and has some air in it throughout the bottling process. I seem to get a some bubbles in my bottling wand as I’m filling every bottle. Am I oxidizing my beer? I do use oxy caps that I dip in sanitizer just before I cap the bottle but I do not know if these few bubbles are enough to create oxidation. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Those bubbles might also be CO2 in solution in the beer. Does your beer taste oxidized?
here recently I’ve been brewing the northern English brown recipe from brewing classic styles and also the Munich dunkel. All the beers in 3 batches had a similar flavor in that they had a slight grape like or sherry like flavor, kinda dull malt profile. I’m trying to pin down tech culprit in my process. This among others is one of the areas I’m looking at. I guess the easy thing would be to leave off the dip tube and see if it makes a difference.
From your description, it sounds like you can’t rule oxidation out. Yeah, try it without the tube. FWIW, I just tip my bottling bucket to get the last drops.
Yes, I think nixing the dip tube and a bucket tip will be my solution to rule out this possibility. Thanks for the help!
I’m with Denny. I just prop the other side of the bucket (opposite the spigot) on a book or two. Any sediment that makes it into the bottling bucket usually settles down below the spigot opening. That last bit in the bucket is generally just the right size for a hydro sample.
I need to add some sort of pick-up to the inside of my bucket. The current bucket I have is from MoreBeer and the spigot sucks. It requires the hole to be drilled way above the bottom or else the spigot would hit the floor. I have to have my lady lift and tip for me. I thought about using a corny, but most of my bottled batches are more than 5 gallons
Could it be stale malt?
I thought about that too. I got the base malt from my LHBS. They keep it in large plastic shipping tubs. Used breasts pale ale malt for the brews in question. It seemed OK but I must admit I don’t know that I’ve ever smelled or tasted stale malt. It was indeed crunchy. I don’t know how long it had been in the shop. Next week I’m going to brew the same recipe using Crisp pale ale malt that I ordered from rebel brewer. Curious to see if it makes a difference.
If all the beers taste oxidized, I suspect it’s something else because a leaky pickup tube in the bottling bucket would only affect the last few bottles filled. When that tube is completely covered in beer, there’s no way for oxygen to get in. Although I also tip the bucket at the end, so removing it won’t hurt.
Do you use screw-type hose clamps on your tubing? I’ve found those clamps can crimp one side and actually make it easier for air to get in at that spot.
I’d love to get my hands on some breasts pale ale malt. 
Sorry couldn’t resist…
+1. I hear the kernels are bigger than normal. Preferred malt for milk stout. I now feel sophomoric. 
I use a keg for my bottling “bucket”. Works very nicely.
it does indeed, plus your bottling bucket can be purged of o2
Plus you don’t need sugar?
No, I already keg, but I am considering using a keg as a bottling bucket for bottle conditioned beers.
I have had good luck just adding priming sugar to the keg, racking beer on top seal, purge, and here’s the cool part, shakeing the living ell out of it to distribute the sugar. Then I push to bottles with co2.
Yeah, but then your hydrometer reading will be compromised by the fact that you just dosed your beer with sugar. Right?
Yeah, but I just subtract .003 to account for the priming sugar.
Assuming you can read your hydrometer to that degree of accuracy, anyway!