Easy to Build and doesn’t look that bad either.
The body is structural sitting on top of a 2 x 4 base with casters for easy movement. The chestfreezer just slides in the back and the lid opens as it should. Top is covered with 12 x 12 black granite and a 19" flushed in drip tray
Chest Freezer - $75 bucks on Craigslist
Home Depot Pine Select 1x3 x 3 8foot sticks = $22.68
Home Depot Pine Select 1x4 x 2 6foot sticks = $14.44
Home Depot Birch Sheet 4x8 = $35.00
Home Depot Standard 2x4 8foot = $2.76
Casters 3" Rubber Wheel Total Lock = Ebay $24.00
1 Box 3" Wood Screws = $7.95
1 Bottle Titebond Wood Glue = $2.97
19" Drip Tray = 36.00 Amazon
Cousin to bring Miter and Table Saw over for a day = $HOMEBREW
2 Cans Stain - Gunstock and Clear = $15.00
1 Can Pre-Stain = $9.99
I already owned the gas system, taps and hoses so I reconditioned them for this project.
Total Cost of Purchased Parts = $245.79
Total Cost of Already owned parts = 300 bucks including Co2 tank.
Total Build “from scratch” price : 545.79
Having 4 taps of homebrew all the time: Priceless
+3 I’ve seen my fair share of keezers on forums. This has probably has to be the best so far. Very nice. Very very nice. This one actually strikes a chord with me. Again, nice work.
Sure, here’s a couple of pics on the process. First off, you can see how we built the shell that surrounds the Chest Freezer. We stripped the freezer of any bulging items such as light or logos, then slid the freezer onto the 2 x 4 base we made for it and built the body of the keezer about 1/2 inch larger than the freezer it self. The freezer is literally floating on the stand with about 1/4 inch of gap on all 3 sides. The back is pretty much kept open for air flow purposes and considering it’s against a wall, no one will ever see it. We decided to build it this way so if the chest freezer ever stops working, we have the option of just sliding it out, replacing the lid onto the new working freezer and sliding it back into place.
K.I.S.S.
Keep it simple stupid, that’s how we build things.
We had built the jocky box just for sizing purposes, but you can see how it will fit together here.
After the supporting base and sides were up and build, we started on the top. We started with a piece of plywood to cover the top so we would have something to attached the corner railing to. Also , we did this to have a solid place to attach the “jockey box” to.
Once we had the coreders all cut, we installed them onto the stand. We did take the time to 45 degree all the cuts so there are no “hard” edges, only nice points. Once that was finished, we attached a piece of “wonderboard” to the top in order have a base of the granite. Here, you can see the nice corners and the wonderboard in place.
Once the wonderboard was on, we installed the jockey box and ran the lines. Here is a picture of that
Nope, no problems at all, there’s only 12 inches “or so”, above the chest lid freezer, really don’t have any problems at all. Another thing I forgot to add, we were really conserned about the weight of the top, considering the wood, granite etc… This has proven to not be a problem either. Some day I might have to increase the size of the hinges, but for as often as I have the lid open, there have been no problems.
The lid? You mean the top which essentially is the lid. Well it’s a piece of plywood built past the edges of the actual chest freezer top to allow mounting of the trim. That piece of wood is actually bolted to more wood we installed on the underside of the lid. We reinstalled the insulation around the new wood on the underside of the lid and re-installed the plastic weather stripping around the edges to keep the seal. Then we mounted “wonder board” to the top of the plywood on top and cut out the drip tray so when we installed the granite, everything stayed flush. The trick is, to keep the edges of the trip wood flush with the granite which in turn is also flush with the drip tray and coffin top.
