I have never had this happen before. All of theses Beers were all grain as follows:
Brown Ale with Wyeast 1332 OG = 1.053, FG = 1.023. Batch = 3.5 gallons.
German Pilsner with Fermentis S-189 OG = 1.045, FG = 1.022. Batch = 3.5 gallons.
Kveik Wheat Ale with Lallemand Kveik OG = 1.046. FG = 1.019. Batch =3.5 gallons.
My first though was did I follow good yeast practices? Second thought was using One Step Cleaner (non rinse cleaner) because it leaves a thin layer in a plastic fermenter. I have used One Step as a normal procedure for many brews without any problems.
I went with the cleanser theory as the easiest possibility to try first. So I cleaned the fermenter with Craft Meister Alkaline Brewery Wash and rinsed it thoroughly. I decided to brew a simple partial mash Amber Ale in case I would need to dump the beer. Brewed the 3.5 gallon Amber Ale on 6/11/21 using US-05 yeast. OG = 1.063. Direct pitched the yeast on brew day and on 6/13/21 it is fermenting nicely at 65F with a 3.5" Krausen. So I am hopping this solves the problem.
Any comments are appreciated.
It’s definitely not the one step.
What is your method of temp control during fermentation? Were there possibly any big swings in temperature?
What were your grain bills? Any large amounts of specialty malts?
Mash temps? Are the OGs actual measurements or based on recipe calculators? If not actual, do you know if your mash thermometer is calibrated accurately?
Temperature is controlled with an Inkbird Controller and this should not be an issue, swing is 2-3F. No speciality malt except in the brown ale used 10% Crystal Malt. Grain Bill and mash temperatures were not abnormal for the styles brewed. Ales were 152F. Pilsner was 150F.
OG was measured with the refractometer and FG with a Brew America hydrometer and refractometer. Mash temperature measured using a Blichmann brew kettle and checked with a Thermapen Mk4.
Thanks for the comments.
For the refractometer I use Brewers Friend refractometer calculator. The fermentation appeared normal at first for the Wyeast packet with a thick fluffy krausen as expected for Northwest Ale Yeast then it quickly dropped out. The dry yeast did not look normal for these yeast strains as they looked thiner and anemic to me. I have used S189 many times and Kveik before. I have brewed over 180 batches of beer and have never had this issue before even when when I first stared brewing. I don’t claim to be an expert but was dumfounded by these results. All of these beers finished in the normal time period 5-10 days I’ll have to look up the dates in my notebook tomorrow for the exact information.
Thanks for the comments!
Sounds like you have most of your bases covered so it is a bit of a head scratcher. If it were me I a would double down on yeast health and pitch rates.
There was a hysterical moment years ago where a person had the exact same problem. Every beer turned out at 1.020. Pages of questions asked until it was finally discovered he wasn’t filling his hydrometer flask all the way and it was sitting on the bottom of the flask. I’ll never forget that discussion. Not saying that is your issue (lol if it was) but don’t overlook something really simple as being the issue.
first thing that comes to mind is a measurement error. most hydrometers have such a small margin for error, my eyes have trouble reading them accurately. They are also mass produced and there are definitely some QC issues at times. A finishing hydrometer was a great investment for me. Also give your hydrometer a swirl to ensure that co2 in solution isnt affecting your reading and make sure your flask is big enough so that your hydrometer isnt sticking to the sides. Alot of small breweries are pretty cool if you ask them if you can use some of their equipment for a quick measurement if you explain the problem that you’re having. ALso, is your hydro sample sludge due to yeast and sediment?
Second thing is mash temp. Are you sure the thermometer you’re using is accurate? you could be mashing at a significantly higher temp than you realize.
I’m confident about the thermometers and clear wort in the hydrometer. The refractometer and hydrometer were within 1 point. Even if you leave the wort in a home with AC at 70F your readings should
be fairly close. I can check the kettle thermometer and Thermoworks with a friend when I get the chance. Thanks for the comment!
You can calibrate to boiling water and ice water. Boiling water is pretty easy because it stays agitated.
For ice water, fill an insulated cup with crushed ice and add some water. Put in fridge and wait 5 minutes. Make sure it’s still full of ice and insert the thermometer. Stir gently near the middle. Get the reading when the reading is steady (about 30 seconds). This is a bit of a PITA, but it can be done.
Thanks I’ve heard of that and I did it a while back. Here is what I did today. I got two samples of water in coffee cups one at 40F and one at 147F. Note my Thermapen Mk4 and my Blichmann Thermometer already agree with each other on mash temp and boil temperature.
Water samples at 40F and 147F where checked with 3 thermometers and they were all within 1 degree F. I used the Thermapen, Inkbird Fermentation Temperature controller and a wired meat thermometer. I also used a Taylor thermometer that was off 2 degrees higher. I am busy today and didn’t have time to fool with the ice.
I know this is a ridiculous question so I apologize, but are you sure the beers were done fermenting? Same gravity reading approximately 3 days in a row?
I know the last few gravity points usually take as long to ferment out as the first many.
Thanks to everyone who commented on my brewing issues! I haven’t reached any conclusions but my Amber Ale OG -1.062 that I recently brewed is at 1.016 and should be a great beer. So I’ll be calm and brew on!