Malts that add body to beer

[factory]

I’ve been wondering, if I need to add some body to my beers, which malts should I try?

[davidgzach]

Add body as in mouth-feel or a maltier flavor profile?  Two different animals.

[factory]

Sorry, I mean body as in mouth-feel.

[denny]

@factory

Sorry, I mean body as in mouth-feel.

I’d hope so, since flavor isn’t body!

Cara malts work well for body…carapils, carafoam, or ab out any crystal.  The trick will be balancing the body addition against any flavor the malt might add.  Obviously, the lighter the malt, the less flavor.

[factory]

Thanks Denny!

If I were making a Pale Ale, and wanted to add some body (because personnally I think it tastes a little thin), would 10% of the grain bill for a crystal or cara-something be a good starting point?  Or should I go higher?

[blatz]

I’m not denny, but what was the crystal/cara in the first run of the recipe you made, assuming there was at least some?

might actually help us if you posted all the recipe specifics, at least the grain bill, yeast and mash temp.

10% is a pretty good weight for a crystal/cara malt to get you a medium to full body, if using a moderate mash temp (150-155df).  but we’ll know more once you let us in on where you’re at currently.

[factory]

@blatz

I’m not denny, but what was the crystal/cara in the first run of the recipe you made, assuming there was at least some?

might actually help us if you posted all the recipe specifics, at least the grain bill, yeast and mash temp.

10% is a pretty good weight for a crystal/cara malt to get you a medium to full body, if using a moderate mash temp (150-155df).  but we’ll know more once you let us in on where you’re at currently.

I had no crystal or cara-anything in the original recipe.  It had a 100% base of Marris Otter (10 or 11 lbs, I think).  I used plain old WLP001 yeast and I mashed at 154F for about 60 to 75 minutes IIRC.  I also batch sparge with equal amounts of water.  I forget the exact amounts and times (recipe is in BeerSmith on my computer at home) but I used Columbus for bittering (FWH addition) and then amarillo for flavor.

[denny]

@factory

Thanks Denny!

If I were making a Pale Ale, and wanted to add some body (because personnally I think it tastes a little thin), would 10% of the grain bill for a crystal or cara-something be a good starting point?  Or should I go higher?

I always use about 10% C60 for APA and AIPA.  If you want something with less impact on flavor, you could try 1/2 lb. of carapils.  Mashing at a higher temp will increase body, but also have an impact on flavor.

Yeast can also have an impact.  One of the reasons I like WY1450 so much is the silky mouthfeel it leaves in the beer.

[davidgzach]

@denny

@factory

Sorry, I mean body as in mouth-feel.

I’d hope so, since flavor isn’t body!

Cara malts work well for body…carapils, carafoam, or ab out any crystal.  The trick will be balancing the body addition against any flavor the malt might add.  Obviously, the lighter the malt, the less flavor.

Exactly.  Seems you mashed at a good temp, could even go a little higher.

[jeffy]

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA’s.

[denny]

@jeffy

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA’s.

Do you think the Munich does much for body?

[bluesman]

@jeffy

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA’s.

I like this idea Jeff…maybe I’ll give it a try.

[kylekohlmorgen]

@denny

I always use about 10% C60 for APA and AIPA.  If you want something with less impact on flavor, you could try 1/2 lb. of carapils.  Mashing at a higher temp will increase body, but also have an impact on flavor.

Yeast can also have an impact.  One of the reasons I like WY1450 so much is the silky mouthfeel it leaves in the beer.

So many ways to skin a cat!

10% crystal/caramel malt will add body, but it will also have a significant impact on flavor (even the lighter varieties). If you go this route, go light if you’re shooting for the “west coast style” (carapils, C10, etc).

Other things you can try:

1. You can increase mash temp. Try the upper end (158F) next time and work your way down if the result is too full/sweet. A 100% Maris Otter grist is a great place to start in a deliciously simple hoppy beer.

2. Add a touch of flaked wheat or oats (3-5%). I like Golden Naked Oats (which are malted, available from NB) instead of the regular flaked stuff.

3. Increase the amount of Chloride in your water. This will also have an impact on hop expression and bitterness, but it will enhance the perception of body without increasing residual sweetness or reducing fermentability.

Make one small change per brew, omitting the change in the next brew if it doesn’t get you closer to your target.

[goschman (Iliff Ave)]

@kylekohlmorgen

@denny

I always use about 10% C60 for APA and AIPA.  If you want something with less impact on flavor, you could try 1/2 lb. of carapils.  Mashing at a higher temp will increase body, but also have an impact on flavor.

Yeast can also have an impact.  One of the reasons I like WY1450 so much is the silky mouthfeel it leaves in the beer.

So many ways to skin a cat!

10% crystal/caramel malt will add body, but it will also have a significant impact on flavor (even the lighter varieties). If you go this route, go light if you’re shooting for the “west coast style” (carapils, C10, etc).

Other things you can try:

1. You can increase mash temp. Try the upper end (158F) next time and work your way down if the result is too full/sweet. A 100% Maris Otter grist is a great place to start in a deliciously simple hoppy beer.

2. Add a touch of flaked wheat or oats (3-5%). I like Golden Naked Oats (which are malted, available from NB) instead of the regular flaked stuff.

3. Increase the amount of Chloride in your water. This will also have an impact on hop expression and bitterness, but it will enhance the perception of body without increasing residual sweetness or reducing fermentability.

Make one small change per brew, omitting the change in the next brew if it doesn’t get you closer to your target.

Don’t want to go off topic but I have a quick question. I have seen Golden Naked Oats desribed as a “crystal” huskless oat. It it really a type of crystal malt?

[denny]

@bluesman

@jeffy

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA’s.

I like this idea Jeff…maybe I’ll give it a try.

ever try an all Munich AIPA?

[denny]

@goschman

Don’t want to go off topic but I have a quick question. I have seen Golden Naked Oats desribed as a “crystal” huskless oat. It it really a type of crystal malt?

Yep.  Discovered that doing research for the book.

[morticaixavier]

@denny

@bluesman

@jeffy

I use about 20% Munich malt and 10% Crystal (usually 40-45L) in my IPA’s.

I like this idea Jeff…maybe I’ll give it a try.

ever try an all Munich AIPA?

I’ve done a couple all munich brews. pretty intense bready/malty thing going on. especially in the all munich barley wine I did. That one attenuated poorly but my wife loved it. Started calling it an old ale and won a 3rd in flight with it.

There is a flavor impact of munich. but in the 20-30% range it’s not overwhelming in my opinion.

[theoman]

@kylekohlmorgen

@denny

I always use about 10% C60 for APA and AIPA.  If you want something with less impact on flavor, you could try 1/2 lb. of carapils.  Mashing at a higher temp will increase body, but also have an impact on flavor.

Yeast can also have an impact.  One of the reasons I like WY1450 so much is the silky mouthfeel it leaves in the beer.

2. Add a touch of flaked wheat or oats (3-5%). I like Golden Naked Oats (which are malted, available from NB) instead of the regular flaked stuff.

+1
I’m a big fan of using oats for body, especially on light, low ABV ales. Then again, I always add oats to my black lagers/ales. Love the stuff.

[natebriscoe]

@factory

@blatz

I’m not denny, but what was the crystal/cara in the first run of the recipe you made, assuming there was at least some?

might actually help us if you posted all the recipe specifics, at least the grain bill, yeast and mash temp.

10% is a pretty good weight for a crystal/cara malt to get you a medium to full body, if using a moderate mash temp (150-155df).  but we’ll know more once you let us in on where you’re at currently.

I had no crystal or cara-anything in the original recipe.  It had a 100% base of Marris Otter (10 or 11 lbs, I think).  I used plain old WLP001 yeast and I mashed at 154F for about 60 to 75 minutes IIRC.  I also batch sparge with equal amounts of water.  I forget the exact amounts and times (recipe is in BeerSmith on my computer at home) but I used Columbus for bittering (FWH addition) and then amarillo for flavor.

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

[denny]

@natebriscoe

+1 for just upping the mash temp. I find when batch sparging you need to go higher with the mash temp than you would think. What kind of fg are you getting?

That’s a very interesting observation.  What do you attribute that to?  I certainly don’t mash any higher because of batch sparging.  AAMOF, my mash temps have been trending downwards.  What is it about batch sparging that makes a higher mash temp necessary?