I’m going to be doing some one-gallon batches soon (at least one this weekend). In the last few I’ve done since rebooting the hobby, I haven’t taken any gravity readings. It just hasn’t been a priority. But, I would like to develop some good practices going forward, including taking original and final gravity readings.
What I’m wondering is if there are any ideal ways to do this. I could take a sample with a sanitized graduated cylinder, drop the sterilized hydrometer in, and return the sample to the rest of it. Or I could perhaps just put the hydrometer in the fermenter before and after fermentation.
But is there a better way? Or am I thinking about this too much?
Not to add more equipment, but a refractometer might be the way to go in the long run. It only uses a drop of sample, and you don’t have to worry as much about contamination. I wouldn’t recommend taking a sample and then pouring it back in… Probably the safest if you want to use a hydrometer is to just put the whole hydrometer in, assuming that it has been well sanitized. In my experience, it is easier to clean and sanitize a hydrometer versus trying to completely sanitize all the nooks and crannies on a sampling vessel.
Thanks for the suggestions. I hadn’t thought about a refractometer, even though I know what one is and does. Maybe parts of my brain aren’t connected yet today.
You might have seen this, but the new Tilt minis are great for this. Sanitize and drop in your fermenter at pitch. Logs Gravity or plato and temp on app. Tells you a lot about your fermentation and no need to draw a sample. Best and congrats on getting back into homebrew.
The obligatory reminder that once fermentation starts, a refractometer no longer reads true. (e.g. if it reads 1.030, it’s not actually 1.030). But as long as you know your original gravity, there are calculators that will help you correct to a reasonably accurate figure. They’re not perfect, but then again - we’re farting around making beer, not trying to create an atomic chain reaction.
You could take a sample out of the boil kettle with a few minutes left, chill it, take your reading and return it to pasteurize it. No suggestions for end of fermentation other than sacrificing some beer for data. Maybe increase your batch size to 1.5 gallons?
I’ve brewed one gallon batches for most of my fifteen years of brewing. A refractometer is the way to go. They are like $15 and only need a drop or two to read. As Drew points out, they aren’t perfectly exact once fermentation starts but as long as you get a good OG reading and use one of the calculators online, you’ll get close enough to get good data.
Make sure you buy a refractometer that is made for beer (versus distilling or brix only) and check the accuracy every few brewdays.
I check my accuracy between measurements, and rinse the sample plate well between samples, too. Perhaps it’s overkill, but I do find frequent calibration to be necessary with my unit.
For those newer to refractometers, do not trust the specific gravity scale on most units – it is generally low (0.002 or more, depending on gravity), and so it is advised to use the Brix/Plato scale and then convert.
Also, while I’m adding info, evaporation is a major factor at these small scales, so take your reading as quickly as possible, especially with hot solutions. I’ve watched the gravity reading creep upward in real time as the water evaporates and leaves a more concentrated solution!
Thanks to everyone for their ideas and insights. I realized yesterday evening that my go-to spot for fermentation may be a bit too warm. But I really can’t be sure how that might be affecting the temperature in the fermenter. So I decided to take the plunge and get the Tilt Mini Pro so I can at least take some remedial action if needed.
I’ve learned a lot in the last couple of days here. Just in time for my next brewing day (tomorrow the 16th!). Thanks again, everyone!