I’ve been flirting with the idea for open air fermentation for a while, especially with Wheat Beers. I currently have a dunkle in a frig at 60 F, and was wondering if open air fermentation in a frig is going to give me the desired effect, and it’s also in a carboy. Just brewed it this morning, so already I have I nice yeasty top. What do you think I could expect just popping the airlock off for the next 4 or 5 days til the trub sinks? BTW my latest Dunkle is with 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen. My desired effects are drive the esters up and keep the banana out. I want a more over all fruity with out excessive banana. I have perfect control on fermentation temp. Will there be enough air circulation in a frig and with the carboy? Others have said I could get better esters from 3638, but I’ve never used it.
I don’t think you’re going to get the result you want using the carboy. With what little experience I have with open fermentation, I like using a bucket. More air can get in around the krauzen. I think fermenting as low as 60 with 3068, you’ll probably kill off much banana anyway. I always ferment at 68 to get more banana with that strain.
+1 with the carboy vs. bucket.
I would add that you should probably get your fridge REALLY clean, sanitized, and dry before doing an open fermentation.
Better yet - if the area right outside the fridge is (around) ferm. temps, leave it out of the fridge (or just leave the door open), allow it to free-rise to around 68F, then stick it in the fridge to make sure it doesn’t creep up above 70F (to control banana-flavor). This will give your open fermentation the most room to “breath” during the most critical, flavor-developing portion of fermentation.
Brewing TV did a whole episode on open fermentations a while back, could be a good thing to watch.
Yes, I saw that episode of Brew TV and it’s what pushed me to want to try an open air fermentation. Thanks for the advice, some others have told me about the frig being one of the more questionable environmets to open air ferment also. Thank you every one.
Brew Your Own’s latest issue has an excellent article on this topic. They say to wait for autumn nights when the temperature drops to about 40F. Brew your beer as normal, but leave the lid off the boil kettle at the end and let the lot wort cool for about 12 hours. Then rack into the carboy or bucket, and pop on the airlock. You could also set out several small pots of hot wort in various locations to use as “starters.” If you’re a techie, you can also leave out petri dishes of agar to catch the wild microflora. One very important thing: you can get some nasty, harmful bugs (Salmonella, E. coli). Evaluate the fermenting wort by smell only for the first month. By then, the pH of the fermentation will have dropped enough to kill off any potential nasties. Then you can taste. I plan to try some open air fermentations very soon. I highly recommend a trip to Allagash Brewing in Maine. They’ve pioneered the open air fermentation with their “Coolship,” which looks like a small stainless steel, open air swimming pool.
I read the question as “controlled open fermetation” not “wild yeast fermentation”. BYO’s article did a very good job on how to get a wild fermentation started.
Buckets will workk better than carboys in my opinion.
Paul
With all of this talk and articles I am going to have to finally give open air fermentation a try. A few months ago a friend in my brewclub made an SS open fermenter for another club member and also gave me one. It will fit a 5 gal. batch.
Well THAT’S a cool idea!
I would still probably rack off the top to get less trub/yeast layer instead of using the port.
I’m not handy with steel - maybe I’ll use a Rubbermaid container one day…
How about a bus tub from the local restaurant supply store with a ball valve attached? Can anyone see a reason not to, assuming the plastic is not harmful? I think I’ll give it a try this spring.
Something like this:
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/black-bus-tub-21-x-15-x-7-polypropylene-bus-box/70221157%20%20%20%20BK.html
Didn’t want to copy the pictures again, but the stainless fermenter is VERY COOL! 8)
Dave
Thanks… Hate to admit it but I haven’t had a chance to use it due to other projects (an Old English Ale aged in a bourbon barrel) and remodeling our basement where I ferment all of my beers. The barrel project is now behind me and the remodeling is almost done. One of the first beers I make when I start back up will be using this fermenter. A friend of mine also had one of these built and has made some serious beer with it, so I am anxious to give it try.
nothing to add except way cool AleForce!
[quote]and also gave me one
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Ale Force! Now that is some friend! I wish I had friends like that!
I have a keg with the top cut off but never converted to a keggle that I use as an open fermenter (two, actually). It is my favorite one. I only go closed for long fermentations. I wish I had a 1 1/2" tri clamp ferrell installed on the side. There are decent looking filters that can attach. I have been looking at this for a while for the solution:
If you’re not going for wild yeast fermentation, what is the advantage for open fermentation besides maybe top-cropping yeast?
Supposedly it effects the flavor of the beer. I’ve tried it a couple times, but didn’t really notice any difference, but YMMV.
I do not notice a flavor difference between my carboys (5 gal batch in 7 gallon carboys), my open fermenters, and closed keg fermenters (10-12 gal batch). I especially like the open fermenter for ease of clean up, don’t have to use two separate carboys for the large batches, and especially like for those very active english yeasts that spill over the sides and into the bin I place them in (like top cropping). I do place a loose lid over the top to keep dust out.
Ale Force! Now that is some friend! I wish I had friends like that!
I have a keg with the top cut off but never converted to a keggle that I use as an open fermenter (two, actually). It is my favorite one. I only go closed for long fermentations. I wish I had a 1 1/2" tri clamp ferrell installed on the side. There are decent looking filters that can attach. I have been looking at this for a while for the solution:
http://www.brewershardware.com/FILTER1.html
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I’ve bought that from brewers hardware a year ago and can say its worth the price. We use it hooked up to our boil kettle while transferring to the primary.
Thanks for the info on the filter. I liked the idea of it because it also has optional 0.2 and 0.3mm stanless steel filter screens that can get even smaller particles… for whichever application you need (wort transfer) or beer transfer, short of actually filtering your beer.
It is in my wish list.
g
I think it may have a more noticeable affect when fermenting on a commercial level. Purportedly Sierra Nevada Kellerweiss is dramatically different open fermented versus in a conical. I don’t know how much different it would be at our size fermentations since we really don’t build up that much pressure.