probably been covered, but…..

First, this is my first post after lurking on the forum for the past couple of weeks.

Second, I tried to a search to see if this had been answered, but didn’t find anything that applied to my specific situation, so I appologize if I am asking something that has already been covered, and I know I am displaying my complete “noobness” by asking this.

Ok, on to my question.

I am brewing my first batch, an oatmeal stout (from a Brewers Best extract kit).  I plan on adding some vanilla when I move it to the secondary.  My issue comes with how long I should leave it in the primary fermentor.

The guys at the homebrew store said I should leave it at least 7 days.  Went to my first Home Brewers meeting this weekend, and they told me at least 2 or 3 weeks in the fermentor would be better.  I was mildly concerned that it seemed to be very active the first 24 hours, but after that, I haven’t seen any bubbling in the airlock.  OG was 1.060, and I took a hydrometer reading yesterday (Day 7) and got 1.029.

So, should I leave it in for another week (or 2) or go ahead and move it to the secondary?  Are there pros and cons?

thank you in advance.

Leave it be. Do not transfer or package until the reading is stable over a couple of days. Airlock activity isn’t the best indicator, sometimes the fermentor won’t be perfectly airtight.

Personally I wouldn’t transfer to secondary. If you are using vanilla beans, drop them in once the beer is done, taste everyday, and package when it gets to where you like it. Less work and less chances for oxidation or contamination.

Edit - WOULDN’T transfer. Stupid small keyboard.

Did you mean to say “wouldn’t”?

I would leave it in the primary until fermentation is complete.  A reading of 1.029 is far from complete.

+1 to what Steve and Jeffy have said so far.

also, welcome to the forum and to the hobby. it’s a blast.

Two general things to remember as you embark on this crazy hobby:

Don’t worry, it’s only beer
And
The yeast don’t read schedules. They will decide when they are done. if you are careful and watchful they will tell you when they are done.

Yes, I wouldn’t transfer to secondary. My bad

Thanks for the quick responses.

Follow up question. Is there any harm in moving it to the secondary and let it finish fermenting?  I have all the ingredients to make an IPA, but I need the fermenter to do so…

It could stall. As Jonathan (mort) said, yeast has its own schedule. Sounds like you could use a second fermentor.

If you rack to a secondary be sure to clean it well then sanitize it well. Rack without aerating and you should be good.

I say do not rack your beer until you’re @ FG - verified by 3 hydrometer checks of a day or two apart.

As one who had only a single primary fermenter, I always racked to secondary so I could start that next one. No issues with oxidation or infection (I flush the secondary with CO2 prior to racking). Of course, now that I have 5 6 gallon primaries, they always seem to be full, waiting for the next batch, so I still secondary almost everything

Whatever you do be sure you don’t rack the beer until it is done fermenting. To check if beer is done take a hydrometer reading once the beer looks to have settles down and the yeast has started dropping and beer starts to look darker. After 3 days take another hydrometer reading. If the reading is the same it is probably safe to rack. If the reading is lower then wait 3 days and take another reading.

Analyze the thought process. ‘My yeast isn’t done yet, so I’ll remove the vast majority of them.’ Sure doesn’t make sense to me.

  • 1 on giving it time.

Those yeast work on their own schedule, not yours.  They aren’t going to magically know that they need to speed up because its YOU that they are making beer for.

Even when they have finished producing alcohol and co2, they still are busy scrounging around the beer, cleaning up after themselves.  This is really where the patience comes in. They will clean up a lot of flavors that otherwise would leave the beer tasting “green”.  So, let them do it.

Another factor is that plastic buckets are notorious for allowing gas to escape out through the edges, causing no bubbles to appear in the airlock.  Additionally, when temperatures drop (like with this cold snap that’s coming through the US), the gas in the head space contracts and you get reduced pressure – no bubbles.

I understand this is your first batch and you are excited to taste it, but you will be much happier with the finished product if you let it take all the time it needs.

Get another batch going while this one is conditioning.  You want to fill your pipeline of beers so that you have enough finished ones that you won’t be tempted to drink one before its time.

HTH-

Nothing helps build patience than lots of great beer in stock

I agree with the advice already given.  I just wanted to point out you’ve invested way more than the cost of another bucket or two in your first batch.  Don’t make it less than it could be by rushing it.  Spend 01 or 20 bucks for another bucket or three.  You’ll be glad you did.  ;D

Welcome to the obsession.

Paul

(Up at 5 this morning to get the mash started on a RIPA before I take the kids to school.  Making a red after that.)

To follow up on klickitat jim and majorvices, I would add some caution and clarify that a “stable” gravity reading means the yeast in its current state, regarding time, temperature, nutrients remaining, etc, is “done” fermenting but it does not mean that all the fermentable sugars are gone. It is important that if you are bottling that the yeast reaches terminal gravity. The kit instructions state that expected final gravity is somewhere between 1.016 and 1.020. If your beer never gets to that point and still reads a stable but slightly higher than recommended gravity, then you’ll need to consider a few options:

  1. rack to secondary - this helps rouse the yeast back into suspension, can add a bit of oxygen, and awaken the yeast to finish fermenting. However, you are reducing the amount of yeast and asking it to continue to ferment sugars when its already “tired or done”. This may take some extended time to finish if you do nothing else. I’m not sure why most kit instructions recommend this step because I think for some beers this can be a crucial mistake. Residual sugars either make sweet beer or can cause much higher carbonation levels than expected or even create bottle bombs/gushers.

  2. move your fermenter to a warmer place and/or rouse your fermenter. Rousing is simply stirring up the yeast sediment. For some english yeasts, this can be helpful to ensure they ferment out those last remaining sugars. An increase in temperature can also increase yeast activity. A ramp up in temperature at this stage is okay but a ramp down in temperature may stop fermentation. Some yeasts can be sensitive to even a couple degrees change and drop out of solution. Again, for me, this is most common with english strains.

  3. use more “advanced” methods to help a stuck fermentation such as adding actively fermenting yeast to help ferment out those remaining sugars your first yeast could not finish

For your next batch consider reading up on rehydrating dry yeast, aeration, and temperature control.

Best of luck and no question asked is a stupid one!

I have to add if the SG is stable at 1.029 do not not bottle it.  In that case, something is wrong and the fermentation is stuck. I know you were asking about when to move to secondary. Just throwing my 2 cents in for safety. You need to be much closer to your predicted FG before bottling. If it’s not within a couple of gravity points at bottling time please come back to the forum for more advise.

The bottles can explode if you bottle too soon.

Welcome.