Quick Disconnect

Systems, Gear, & DIY
1

Hi All,

I would like to add a weldless ball valve to my kettle.  I always see them with barbed hose adapters.

Does anyone have or use a quick disconnect?  Does anyone make one?  Similar to what you would use with air compressor tools.

Seems like this would be the way to go.  You don’t want the hoses attached while you are boiling your wort.

Chris

2

You betcha:  http://morebeer.com/search?search=disconnect

3

You tease!  They’re all out of stock!

4

By far, the best possible solution:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_sanvlv.html

And weld in a set of these:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_hose_connect.html

Then you can use one of these as well:
http://www.brew-magic.com/ketl_acc_siphon_kit.html

This is assuming you have access to or know someone who can weld stainless.

If not, go with something from CPC (colder products if CPC doesn’t show up in a search).
Some examples, and a distributor:

5

Thanks, I can’t believe I missed those.

6

I have the CPC disconnects and I love them, they make life a lot easier. One thing to consider when choosing a disconnect is that the Polysulfone QDC do not conduct heat so you can touch them when hot. I do agree the tri-clamp connections are the best (they are industry standard for brewing), however the CPC Polysulfone are a bit more economical.

Oh, BTW, one down side of the CPC disconnects is you have to drill out the “X” on the inside tokeep them from plugging up if running wort through them. A Dremel makes quick work of them though.

7

All my QD’s are SS…spend more to get the best.  Pricey, yes. Worth it ? Oh baby !!!

8

Hey, timo, good to see ya!

9

Please quantify this.  I’m about to get some qd’s.

What makes it worth it? better beer? last longer? easier to clean?..

…or just nice to have the bling?

10

D. All of the above

I have 2 female QDs on the ends of the silicone hoses from my pump, and males on every piece of equipment.

http://www.dultmeier.com/catpages.asp?page=E0170

11

I have high-temperature brass QDs McMaster-Carr.  Male on the kettles, mash tun and pump, female on the hoses.  They work great - you just need to remember to use a potholder or glove when handling them.

12

YIKES! I’m replying to Keith’s 666th post!  :o

I’ve used the poly CPC quick connects for several years in the “Stock” mode . . that is complete with X bracing intact. I’ve heard people talk of problems, but I’ve never experienced any flow plugging issues. I refrained from Dremeling out the Xs because I thought the thing might soften ever so slightly under heat causing a warping distortion in the fitting . . and a resultant leak.

13

667!  ;D

Haven’t had any issues with mine. I ran them with the “X” in tact but when I took them apart to clean them I always noticed they were partially plugged with hops, even though I’m using pellets. I decided to dremel them out just to be safe. In my experience few things can mirror the frustration as when you are trying to move a finished wort to the fermenter and get a clogged line. Stuck sparge excepting, of course.  :wink:

That said, I guess it would be an easy thing to fix on the fly. But (in addition to 12) I am running 42 gallon batches which means a lot more hops so I decided not to take the chance.

14

Poke around this site. 

for theball valves

Straight

90 degree

I also recently purchased the rubber gaskets for my kegs through this company as well.

15

I used to use CPC QD’s, and the problem I had with them is that the O-rings stretch out very easily. I was replacing them just about every other time, even if I lube them up. I never heard of anyone else having that problem, so YMMV and all that. I switched over to plain old GHT, because honestly… How quick does it need to be?

Also… people talk about the X being needed for bracing, but to me it sure looks a hell of a lot like a molding sprue. I never drilled mine out because it never caused me any problems, but given the material and design I would not hesitate to remove it because of any supposed structural issues.

16

yeah, that is a problem (though certainly not every batch) anyone have a McMaster Carr part # for those? They charge something like 90 cents a piece for them at NB. Crazy!!

17

I measured them, but I can’t find my notes now. If I ordered replacements from McMaster, I’d try a different material and see if they had the same issue.

18

I like the sanitary SS Tri-Clamps. Pricey but better in the long run. Check out this site.

http://www.stiflow.com/hosefit_sani_intro.htm

19

I hate site that make you “request a quote”. If you have to request it you can’t afford it.  :wink:

This site has actual prices on Tri Clover Clamps. http://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-Fittings/

20

Maybe true…but just remember that you pay for what you get. You’ll pay one way or the other in the end.

I’m a believer in keeping it simple…but when it comes to quality products it will cost you.

My method of buying is to get three reputable quotes and go from there.  :wink: