I tried searching the forum for related information, but found nothing–I apologize if this is a repeated question.
I have just about finished building my stir plate, and will be getting into making a yeast starter for the next batches. I have seen multiple videos and read up on this, but was unable to find specific information on which type of DME to use. My question is, does it matter? There appears to be several varieties of DME, so I wasn’t sure if using a particular type in the yeast starter would impact the flavor of the beer. If I were making an APA or IPA, is there a certain type of dry malt that I should use in the starter? Or is it such a small volume that it doesn’t matter? Thanks!
i use light DME, but honestly doesn’t matter-especially when decanting before pitching. if youre not decanting small volume starters, perhaps you may want to vary your DME-light, amber, etc. again, volume would be small so color impact would be negligible IMO.
I’m just curious because starter instructions I’ve seen from older books called for hops, presumably to ward off bacteria. I just assumed that was abandoned due to the cost and the fact that good sanitation made it unnecessary.
[quote]Lightest for me as well if I use an extract. How many people use a liter of wort of a previous boil as the next starter?
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I don’t use boiled wort. Instead, I let the mash tun continue draining during the boil. I can get a quart easily, which I freeze. After a couple batches, I have enough for the next starter. If I need more, I add some hot water to the mash tun.
I’m with Bengelbrau. When my wort is cooled, I decant the bottom of the pot into several pitchers, place them in the refrigerator and save the top wort. Everything else settles to the bottom. I freeze the wort in pint or qt containers and never run out for starters. If my wort is 1.048 I add 50% water to make it 1.024 when it’s time to make my starter. Why spend money on expensive DME.
Who in the world made this claim? I have seen no published data that supports the claim. In fact, the claim is illogical. If hop resin prevented yeast cells from budding in starter wort, it would prevent yeast cells from budding in beer wort. The cells would have to become coated to a point where they are unable to pass nutrients and waste products through their cell walls. We are talking about a high IBU rating. It’s game over if that happens during a fermentation.