Type of DME for yeast starter?

I tried searching the forum for related information, but found nothing–I apologize if this is a repeated question.

I have just about finished building my stir plate, and will be getting into making a yeast starter for the next batches.  I have seen multiple videos and read up on this, but was unable to find specific information on which type of DME to use.  My question is, does it matter?  There appears to be several varieties of DME, so I wasn’t sure if using a particular type in the yeast starter would impact the flavor of the beer.  If I were making an APA or IPA, is there a certain type of dry malt that I should use in the starter?  Or is it such a small volume that it doesn’t matter?  Thanks!

I use the lightest color I can find just because it’s easier to see through, no other reason.

i use light DME, but honestly doesn’t matter-especially when decanting before pitching. if youre not decanting small volume starters, perhaps you may want to vary your DME-light, amber, etc. again, volume would be small so color impact would be negligible IMO.

It makes no significant difference.  Use whatever is cheap or available.  Use LME instead of DME if you want.

The only thing about malt extract for starters that is important is to use unhopped extracts.

+1.  I use pale or pils and then decant.  Other than avoiding the darkest of extracts, it doesn’t matter.

Say what?

I’m just curious because starter instructions I’ve seen from older books called for hops, presumably to ward off bacteria. I just assumed that was abandoned due to the cost and the fact that good sanitation made it unnecessary.

Why?

^^This^^

The lightest DME I can find.

Lightest for me as well if I use an extract.  How many people use a liter of wort of a previous boil as the next starter?

[quote]Lightest for me as well if I use an extract.  How many people use a liter of wort of a previous boil as the next starter?
[/quote]

I don’t use boiled wort. Instead, I let the mash tun continue draining during the boil. I can get a quart easily, which I freeze. After a couple batches, I have enough for the next starter. If I need more, I add some hot water to the mash tun.

Now the thinking is hop resins can prohibit cell budding to some point.

+1 to majorvices

So… that might explain my CRS.

Wow, I stopped putting hops into my starters a long time ago due to laziness, but the yeast approve!

Good to know!

I’m with Bengelbrau.  When my wort is cooled, I decant the bottom of the pot into several pitchers, place them in the refrigerator and save the top wort.  Everything else settles to the bottom.  I freeze the wort in pint or qt containers and never run out for starters.  If my wort is 1.048 I add 50% water to make it 1.024 when it’s time to make my starter.  Why spend money on expensive DME.

BV

Who in the world made this claim?  I have seen no published data that supports the claim.  In fact, the claim is illogical.  If hop resin prevented yeast cells from budding in starter wort, it would prevent yeast cells from budding in beer wort.  The cells would have to become coated to a point where they are unable to pass nutrients and waste products through their cell walls.  We are talking about a high IBU rating.  It’s game over if that happens during a fermentation.