Hi guys,
I have a Bayou Classic KAB4 burner, and a few extra 100 pound propane tanks. I have copper tubing and different flare fittings. Has anyone rigged up a big propane tank to run their burners? I’m not sure the best way to attach the tank to the regulator. My first thought was to cut the rubber tubing, use a barb fitting and a hose clamp to attach the copper tube to the regulator, but I worry about that leaking.
Any ideas?
I don’t understand…
A 100# tank should have the same valve as a 20# tank…
It just weighs more, due to it’s capability to hold more volume…
(100# vs. 20#)
Did I miss something?
IANAP (I am not a plumber) but that was my thought also. The pressure in a 100# tank should be no different that in a 20# tank.
As always I stand ready to be corrected but the only difference I’m aware is the over damage you can do to your back due to 80 more pounds being moved. ;D
Paul
100 pound tanks don’t have OPDs, AFAIK. They have the same internal, left-hand threaded valves that 4 through 40 pound tanks used to have, pre-OPD, not the external, right-hand threaded OPD valves.
Here is what an OPD valve looks like:
http://www.fropane.com/Web%20Content/OPD.gif
Here is what my valve looks like:
http://www.propaneproducts.com/index.php?l=product_images&p=476
I see…All the new ones I can see are OPD valves.
I use these, on my 20# tanks:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Pressure-Regulator-F273719/dp/B0002YQP76
They utilize the internal left-hand threads.
I get them for closer to $18, locally.
I believe OPD is required for residential gas grill type connections but the internal LH thread is standard for commercial/industrial type installs. 100# tanks are generally for commercial/industrial or at least home heating type installs so they would use the internal LH threaded connectors.
Paul
I agree with Kit B, your hose fitting should have “internal threads” that will screw over an adaptor fitting. Or you could just cut the hose and fab your own fittings… LP is LP whether its in the delivery truck tank or in a 20 pound tank. 
I think you may have misunderstood.
The link I provided shows an adjustable regulator that would use the internal threads on his valve.
His valve:
http://www.propaneproducts.com/index.php?l=product_images&p=476
The threads furthest to the left , on the following regulator will screw into that valve:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Pressure-Regulator-F273719/dp/B0002YQP76
I hadn’t thought about replacing the regulator. I guess I was hoping for a cheaper/easier way to make the regulator I have work, although a longer hose and a different regulator wouldn’t cost too much. I’ll probably end up going that route.
Many regulators have have threaded connections. Get some wrenches and remove the OPD connector and replace it with one that fits.
I tried adding something like one of these guys to my adjustable regulator, to make connecting easier…
It didn’t work.
Evidently, many of those have built-in limiting orifices.
It choked my regulator so bad, that I couldn’t get a flame…
But, you could probably add one of these to your current regulator:
Here is where the confusion comes in a 100# Tank uses a POL Valve and a 20# tank uses a OPD Valve you can use the POL hoses on an OPD Valve. But you can not use an OPD Hose on a POL valve you can get adapters that will change that they run about $20 or so and can be found on line on Ebay & Amazon.com
Channeling my inner Hank Hill…“Who’d a thunk that propane and propane accessories would be so dang confusing?”
FWIW, I had an old grill that predated all of the current safety connection stuff and it used the internal threads of a propane tank for connection (it required a wrench to connect). It finally fell into such disrepair that I updated to the newfangled kind and don’t miss the hassle a bit.
Good luck with your plumbing search!
Rubber hose (rated for gas and pressure), barb fitting and a hose clamp will work just fine as long as there are no leaks and a regulator is involved.