For context, I was building a custom BIAB system for 10 gallon batches, using the Auber Instruments Cube 5e as a controller, but it turns out I cannot add a 240v/30A outlet to my house. It’s a long story, but trust me on this; it cannot reasonably be done.
The upside is that I already have a 240v/50A outlet for car charging. Auber Instruments sells two 50A-rated controller kits. One is for a 2-vessel RIMS setup, and one is for a 3-vessel HERMS system. I plan on buying one of these and running my BIAB off only part of the controller and eventually upgrade to a 2- or 3-vessel system when we move houses in a few years.
Here’s the question: do I eventually upgrade to a 2-vessel RIMS or 3-vessel HERMS? Why or why not? I know RIMS heat faster, but are the scorching issues as problematic as I’ve been told?
If you have a 50A available (and I’m assuming that you can borrow it for brewing, based on your post), then why do you need a different controller?
For my system, I had an outlet installed in the garage, and I had a 50A outlet installed just so that I have the option to install a car charger in the future. I purchased an adapter to convert the 50A outlet to the 30A socket that my brewing system requires, and it works great.
Because the smaller controllers are rated for a max of 30A. I can get an adapter to covert the plug, but that doesn’t protect against too much amperage going into the device. The electricians I’ve consulted with have all universally said the same thing: “You could do that, but I wouldn’t. It’ll work, unless something goes wrong, and if something goes wrong, it’s going to be really bad. Get a controller rated for 50A.”
I don’t understand that. I have 20A outlets in my kitchen. Most of the things I plug in are well under 20A draw.
Based on what your electricians are saying, I should not be plugging in my phone charger, hand mixer, food processor, or pretty much anything else unless it’s rated for 20A.
An electric device should only draw as much current as it needs. If your 30A controller is controlling loads that draw less than 30A, then the fact that the outlet can supply up to 50A should not be an issue.
I have a GFCI on my 50A line because it’s going to be used with brewing equipment, and I’d certainly recommend that. I freely admit that I’m not an electrician, but I’ve never before heard the argument that you shouldn’t use a lower amperage device on a line that can support more amps.
I think the concern of the electrician (and thus the poster) is that a 50A line could potential provide more current that the device can handle, thus creating a fire and/or electrocution hazard. GFCI alone wouldn’t prevent this. I also assume that a brewery burner is more likely to have this issue than a low current phone charger or other appliance.
I don’t have an opinion on which controller to purchase. Given that you have not brewed on the system that you are designing I would flip a coin on that one. Given what I assume will be a significant expense, have you considered keeping it simple and brew-in-a-bag outdoors with a good propane burner? I know its not as sexy but wort-making doesn’t have to be. Does it?
Something doesn’t sound right. A house’s power system doesn’t push electricity to devices. Devices draw electricity and will only draw as much amperage as the device is rated. A basic tenet of an electrical system is to have a power supply (amperage) that is equal to or greater than the device(s) requirements.
That’s exactly my point. The line supplies voltage, and the device draws current based on its internal resistance. Or at least, that’s what I recall from a long ago physics class. The line supports a maximum amount of current.
I suppose you could make the argument that if there’s a catastrophic failure of the controller / brewing system, the 50A circuit won’t cut as early as a 30A would, but I believe there would normally be fuses in the controller, anyway.
All I can tell y’all is exactly what all the electricians said, because I’m a psychologist and not an electrician. They said it when it works, it’d be fine, but in case of a power surge or some fluctuation, because I’m only drawing 30A, the breaker wouldn’t trip, and there’s the possibility of a fire. I’m not risking my 1yo and house on, “It’s probably fine,” when I don’t have the expertise to explain why.
Now…to my original question: 2-vessel RIMS or 3-vessel HERMS?
I don’t use propane because I live in a crowded, urban area, and the only location options I have for brewing are either inside my garage or in a driveway I share with ten other households.
I used to have a RIMS but switched to HERMS. I have been much happier with the HERMS because I don’t have to watch it like a hawk on brew day. If the pump flow stops or even slows with a RIMS you’re going to taste (and smell) it. With the HERMS that’s not even a concern. I just feel so much better not having my wort in direct contact with a heating element.
The added benefit of the HERMS is 1) I removed an immersion chiller from my process and 2) I can use the hot water in the hot liquor tank to clean with. Once the mash is complete and I lauter to the boil kettle, I clean the mash/lauter tun, then xfer the hot water from the HLT to the MLT to hold it there until I am ready to circulate it thru the system to clean. I then use the HLT and HERMS coil to circulate wort thru cold water until it’s hot as a result of cooling the wort. I xfer it to the MLT as well, and then add ice to the HLT to further cool to pitching temp.
At the end of brewday I recirculate the hot water I stored in the MLT mixed with PBW throughout the system.
The adapter you build could also have an inline breaker rated for 30A. Problem solved. RIMS vs. HERMS: Which is Better? With the Auber controls - you can choose the power level to the heater - this will minimize the potential of scorching. I like RIMS systems.
I’m a little biased. I built a single tier, 3 vessel HERMS system years ago. It was powered by the “BrewTroller”, which was a bespoke brewing platform on a custom Arduino. When it came time to upgrade my brewery to electric a couple of years ago, I took the opportunity to build a control box. Since BrewTroller is dead, I looked a few options for the DIYer. The best thing available, to this date is the BrewPi / BrewBlox system. I have full manual control and full touchscreen control with macros and sequences to do everything the BrewTroller did, and more. In essence, it is pro-level control and automation for our scale. What my wife and friends don’t realize is that many pro breweries don’t have the level of control and usability that I have in my brew garage.