Wine making was fun, but brewing beer has been a blast! I’ve been thinking about possibly purchasing three, 15 gallon kettles from SB and automating the process with pump(s), electric heat and a control center. I guess I need to start with the power source and see what’s possible. I no longer use a 240v circuit that was once used to run a 1hp homelawn irrigation pump. I believe the power line is a 12-2 wire. Any suggestions as to what or how much I could power with this 240 circuit?
Call an electrician. 20a isn’t enough for an element plus pumps and panel power. You also want a GFI breaker for safety.
Checkout electricbrewing
They have all the information you could want.
I’d like to try and reduce the use of propane, so maybe just customizing the 15 gallon HLT with a heating element and herms coil for circulation of the mash. The pumps can be plugged into another near by outlet. Partial automation would be nice if someone has a few suggestions. An electrician will do the work. Thanks.
If you’re going to invest in an electric system, might as well not half ass it. Have an electrician upgrade your circuit to a 30a gfi minimum. This will give you more than enough power for a 5500w element, panel, and pumps.
I’d start with with electric brewery as mentioned above. Spike has an all in system now as well. Basically based around the same design. Both are zero automation outside of holding temperature. PIDs with ramp function exist, but are a PIA to program with four buttons.
Hosehead controllers are RPi based and have more automation. This is the only out of the box micro controller solution I know of.
Thanks for the suggestions, but I want to keep it a bit more simple and less expensive. The HLT and MT will both be 10 gallons and customized by SB. My BK will be a bit more simple and propane heated.
Working with my 20 amp dual pole circuit (3,800 watts) is there a simple 120v temperature controller that will operate an electric heating element? For the circulating 10 gallons?
I check out Electric Brewery too.
Thanks again.
Any PID should do the trick, but you will also need to add in and SSVR to limit the voltage to the 4500w element. High gravity brewing may have a controller that would work for you.
ETA - 3500w elements exist, not sure if they are stainless or not.
The Auber EZ-boil is great
Those are great sites!
Question about the herms process. I’m use to manually sparging 170 degree water over the grain bed, so what happens in a herms system. Does the constant recirculation thru the herms coil eliminate the need for final grain bed extraction?
I’ve read up a little on control panels and a 30amp sized panel seems adequate for my future 10 gallon system. Rated at 7,200 watts, what size equipment can I run? I would like a heating element in the HLT and BK. What size “low density” element should I purchase? Thanks.
You would likely only be able to run one element at a time, which is fine as you don’t need to run both. You don’t need to power the kettle intel you’ve sparge don’t enough to cover the element by a couple of inches and by then you wouldn’t need the HLT element powered.
I’d go with the highest wattage possible for the HLT and a 4500w ripple in the kettle. Many people use 5500w just fine, but I would worry about scorching or darkening (likely an unwarranted worry)
When using a system like RIMS and HERMS, the goal is to get the wort to 170 for mashout, not the entire grain bed. You still need to sparge unless you opt to run no-sparge.
So, when you do sparge with a Herms system, how do you raise the temp to 170 and not include the grain bed? Isn’t the MT and HLT just recirculating thru the herms coil until you finally drain the wort into the boil kettle?
I would also second the www.theelectricbrewery.com. While a little more pricey, I purchased a completed panel with elements, and I don’t regret it at all. Top notch build, and works very well. If nothing else, Kal’s site has a wealth of information.
You measure the outflow of the coil and not the temp of the mash tun itself. The grain will not get as hot, but it will get close.
So, are the temperature dials that are screwed into the kettle exterior unnecessary? Temps displayed on the control box should be enough. Also makes the kettle a little cheaper price wise.
You wouldn’t need dial thermometers in your HLT or Mashtun in this unless you want them.
correct. there will be a heating element in the HLT and prob sensor that controls the MT and HLT. Also a element in the BK with a sensor, so no real need for any dials.
I’ve been wondering if I should increase the MT from 10 to 15 gallons. I don’t see myself upgrading for a long time with SB custom kettles. Would two 10s and a 15gal kettle off balance the system? Just don’t want to limit batch size.
All depends on your needs. IMO, with HERMS, an HLT that can hold your entire water volume is important. 10 gallon batches I’d go with 20/15/15, 5 gallon I’d go 15/10/10.
Good point. The Herms control box that I’m building will only power one heating element at a time. However, I’m doing 10 gal kettles for 5 gal batches and need less than four gallons of sparse/boil water.