Looking at a kit online (Surly Furious IPA clone) and there are a few options for yeast.
1) Any thoughts and would this make a difference in the taste?
2) Would you spring for a cold shipping options for an additional buck or two?
Safale Ale S-04 Whitbread Strain (11.5 grams) +$3.29
British Ale II Yeast Activator - Wyeast 1335 - 4.25 oz. +$6.29
The one time I ordered liquid yeast online I had a bad experience so I only order dry. I would do with the s-04 as long as you can ferment cool. I used s-04 in my most recent pale and fermented at 62 with really good results. Again, my opinion is based more on cost and one bad experience.
The recipe for Furious is in the book I just worked on. According to the recipe, they use Wyeast 1335 British Ale II. So, whichever of your choices is most like that is correct. FWIW, here’s the extract recipe, from the brewery…
Crush these specialty grains and steep in 2.5 gal. (9.5 L) of water
at 160°F (71°C) for 20 minutes:
■■ 12 oz. (340 g) English Medium Crystal malt
■■ 8 oz. (225 g) Belgian aromatic malt
■■ 2 oz. (57 g) English roasted barley
■■ .5 oz. (14 g) Amarillo hop pellets (9.5% AA)
Strain the grain into your brewpot. Bring the wort to a boil,
remove from the heat, and add:
■■ 6.3 lb. (2.85 kg) light liquid malt extract
Stir well until the extract is completely dissolved. Add water as
needed to bring the total volume to 3 gal. (11.3 L). Bring the wort
to a rolling boil and add:
■■ 1.6 oz. (45.36 g) Warrior hop pellets (16% AA)
Boil for 45 minutes, remove from the heat, and then add:
■■ 2 lb. (.9 kg) light dry malt extract
Boil for another 15 minutes, remove from the heat and add:
■■ 2 oz. (57 g) Amarillo hop pellets (9.5% AA)
Chill the wort as quickly as possible to below 80°F (27°C), using
an ice bath or wort chiller. Transfer the wort to the fermenter
and add cold water to bring the total volume to 5.5 gal. (20.8 L).
Aerate the wort. Add the yeast:
■■ Wyeast 1335 British Ale II
Ferment at 68°F (20°C) until final gravity is achieved. Siphon to
a secondary fermenter and allow the beer to condition for 1 to 2
weeks. Add:
■■ 1 oz. (28.35 g) Warrior whole-leaf hops (16% AA)
■■ .25 oz. (7.08 g) Ahtanum whole-leaf hops (6% AA)
■■ .25 oz. (7.08 g) Amarillo whole-leaf hops (9.5% AA)
■■ .25 oz. (7.08 g) Simcoe whole-leaf hops (13% AA)
Allow the beer to condition for 1 to 2 weeks. Bottle when
fermentation is complete with:
■■ 5 oz. (140 g) corn sugar
Activator is simply the form of packaging. I missed that you had listed 1335 above. Keep in mind that the OG of this beer is high enough that if you use a liquid yeast you’ll need to make a starter with it.
Activator is simply the form of packaging. I missed that you had listed 1335 above. Keep in mind that the OG of this beer is high enough that if you use a liquid yeast you’ll need to make a starter with it.
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Denny,
Can you elaborate on what a starter is, or point me in the direction for good instructions? Thanks!
Denny,
Would you consider this beer a high gravity beer that even needs a starter? The recipe lists the following gravity ranges;
SG- 1.064-1.068
FG- 1.012-1.018
it wouldn’t hurt. if the yeast is liquid and anything short of super fresh (check the used by date on WYeast packages) you will do well to make a starter.
simplest form is ~100 grams Dry Malt Extract (DME) to 1000 ml water, boil to dissolve/sanitize, pour into a sanitized container with ~30% more capacity than the starter volume and add the yeast. Swirl the whole thing everytime you walk by for a couple/few days and then put in the fridge 2 days before pitching. Decant most of the liquid and pitch the slurry at the bottom. Mr Malty elaborates
The (starter yeast) process looks necessary but perhaps a little out of my comfort zone. I don’t have any extra DME on hand (LHBS hopefully has small bags) and I don’t have a digital scale. Any thoughts?