Does anything glaring stand out for this recipe?
Will the Citra/Galaxy/Mosiac dry hop work well with the Amarillo/Centennial/Simcoe hop stand?
Batch Size: 6 gallons
Boil Time: 60 Minutes
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1.00 oz Amarillo [9.20 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 60. Hop 6 11.4 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 6.0 Days Hop 9 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz Citra [12.00 %] - Dry Hop 3.0 Days Hop 12 0.0 IBUs
I’d do either oats or wheat at 15-20% instead of both.
The Hop Shot is actually 5 ML, not ounce. Beersmith does not play well with Hop Shots.
The latest Beersmith desktop version is Hop Shot friendly. I was able to add the 3 ml CO2 Extract I purchased from YVH (selecting the drop down) in the ingredients area.
I’m just now starting to play with water chemistry, but one thing I would notice is your sulfates seem a little low. You want more sulfate to make the hops really pop. Is your water already high in sulfate? I still haven’t figured out how to use Bru’n water, but everyone tells me for IPAs “More gypsum… more gypsum”. I only add 1 tsp per three gallons, rather than the Brewcraft recommendation of 1 tsp per 1 gallon, but that still adds 200+ PPM Sulfate. (Portland Oregon water which is damn near zero in everything to begin with).
Just took a bjcp class last night on IPAs, so it’s all pretty fresh. Everything else looks good, I can’t really comment on the grain profile since I don’t do all grain. Oats can get really nasty the times I’ve brewed with them (like sticky and hard to clean, the wort itself was great).
To me, the double dry hop seems excessive. Have you used this method before with success? If so, by all means keep at it. I can’t imagine a three day DH would add that much, but I’ve never done it, so that’s just my experience.
ethinson - the water chemistry is for a New England style IPA where hop bit is restrained as a result of lower Sulfate and higher Chloride. This is intentional.
Most NEIPA recipes, and many IPAs also, call for a double-dose of dry hops. For me, a single dose of 3 ounces is about enough for the hops to not entirely clump together in the dry hop filter - otherwise, with too much, the hops become a big mass that is hard to work with.
I’m not sure if you have looked into it or not, but I prefer to blend my base malts. Around 40/40/20 pale/MO or GP/Pils for my pale American ales.
I say go for it as-is. I don’t know if the wheat is needed in addition to the oats, but I don’t necessarily see an issue, either (aside from possibly having a tough time lautering).
Your hop combo should work quite well together.
I’m joining this thread for my education as well. I like the recipe. But please correct me if I am wrong. I was under the assumption that the NEIPA had minimal to no IBUs with all kettle hops added during the whirlpool.
That’s certainly my perception of what the good ones taste like.
I brewed this on 04/16. The LA III yeast is a beast and was spewing yeast through the blow-off tube for the first few days (@ 65F). Never had this before w/Conan. Perhaps it was a combination of the yeast, oats, and wheat?
The 10ML hop shot was added at the beginning of the boil and flameout hops (3 ounces) added at 180F and left to sit, stirred occasionally, for about 90 minutes, giving me time to clean up and get the fermenter ready.
I wouldn’t say no IBU’s, but maybe closer to an APA than an IPA. 40ish IBU is probably closer to the higher end, but not unreasonable. Hop Shot is pretty smooth bittering in my experience as well, so I wouldn’t expect this recipe to have too much of a bite as brewed.
Today marks two weeks since brew day. Fermentation has been around 65-67 F the entire time. Today’s sample tasted great despite a gravity of 1.020 (two different hydrometer samples).
OG was 1.082 and mash @ 152 using London Ale III (1318). Per the recipe in Beersmith, it should be right there at 1.021.
Going from 1.082 to 1.020 is around 73% attenuation (per Beersmith).
I moved the chamber temperature to 70F to coax a point or two out of the yeast. After two weeks and 73% attenuation however, I am not confident this yeast will do anything else.
At 1.020, the beer tasted good, not too sweet to my palate. Knowing that it’s 1.020 is bugging me …
Given the recipe above, what are you thoughts on leaving at ambient temperature for another week or should I bite the bullet and keg/dry hop now?
This style is supposed to be a little sweeter but is 1.020 too sweet?
With the exception of throwing more yeast at it, what would you do?
So were you going more for a double IPA? For an IPA that big I would have used some table sugar to encourage higher attenuation but I could see that not being advised for the NE style.
Considering the high OG and yeast strain that FG seems appropriate. I would take a reading in a couple of days to make sure it doesn’t drop then package.