So I’m curious… Those of you out there using some form of temperature control, what do your temp schedules for ales look like?
I’ve been using a chest freezer with a dual controller, one plug controls the freezer, one plug controls a heating pad.
For my last beer using WLP 001, I pitched and set the fermenteezer at 61F, knowing fermentation is exothermic, I was hoping to hit right around 64-65F in the fermenting wort. After 48 hours I then started bumping up the temp controller by a degree per day until I hit 70F. Then I let it ride for another 3 days. Finally, I cold crashed for 48 hours then transferred to the keg. It’s a great beer, no off flavors that I can taste.
I’m planning something similar for my Grape Ape APA I have in the fermenteezer now. Same yeast, started low and I’ve been bumping up a degree every 24 hours or so. The big difference is when I add the dry hops and grapefruit zest. I’ll probably be at 70ish F by the time fermentation is complete. Should I then lower the temp for the dry hopping? Or does it not really have an effect on the hops at that point?
And like I said, just curious as to other’s scheduling and temps.
Cheers.
I typically pitch low 60s, ferment at 66° for 3 days, 70° for 3 or 4 days then crash. Dry hops usually go in on day 4.
Edit: for ales I use 1968 or WLP090
American ales - pitch 62, hold @ 64 for 72 hours, ramp up to room temp until FG. I dry hop in the keg for 5-7 days @ room temp, then chill and carb.
Belgians - depends on the strain.
Depending on the fermentation it’s important to control the temp for the first 48-72 hours. After that letting it rise never hurt any of my beers. It’s better to put your temp controller probe right next to your fermenter so you can manage the actual beer temp. I’ve had the best luck dry hopping at warmer temps so 70F should work good. Cheers!!!
I too pitch cold and allow to rise to desired temp and hold until fermentation slows, then I’ll ramp up a degree or two each day until I reach final. Of course this is dependent on the strain being used
Thanks guys. It looks like I’m right in the ballpark then. Just always like comparing different people’s techniques and practices. I like to think that there’s always something to learn from others and you never know with out asking.
As for this Grapefruit Pale Ale I’ve got going… I’m gonna keep with bumping up a degree every 24 hours or so until 70F. Let it ferment out and then add my dry hops and grapefruit zest. Let that sit for 5 days then cold crash.
No mention of gravity readings in this whole thread. Are we assuming?
Sorry about that. Yes, gravity readings are used to determine the process of fermentation and when it’s complete. I assumed that was what most, if not all, of us did, so I was more curious about temperature control with regards to a warming schedule, if any, was used.
I think his question was about whether people are scheduling fermentation around, well fermentation, instead of the calendar.
My fermentation schedules depend upon the strains. I work with a small number of strains and I know where they should be in fermentation by the number of days so I can usually figure out when to adjust temperatures based upon the calendar. For strains I have a less experience with I will go in and take gravity readings. My schedules are not much different from what has been discussed here for neutral ale strains.
The schedule I posted was for average strength beers (including AIPA), and it works great. I think most of us wouldn’t ramp a barleywine or RIS after 2 or 3 days. So of course I let the yeast determine what I do, not a calendar schedule. Should’ve been more specific, though.
I only mention it cuz ya never know.
Anyway, im a beleiver in slow steady ramping up in temp. And it depends on gravity and strain. My lagers are around 1.050-1.060 and I start with wort at 48º and controller at 50º. I walk it up one degree per day to 68º. So, after a full week its still only at 57. No harm there. No diacetyle or stalled fermentation issues either. My medium strength ales usually start chilly, about 60º for a few days, then I do the one degree per day routine up to about 70.
On bigger beers I give it more time on the cool end.
Agreed. He was looking for info to compare. It would’ve been more help to be extra specific.
Thanks for all the information guys!
So, Jim , I have 2 five gallon Scotty’s just brewed yesterday - starting gravity at 1.044 - using 1728. Chilled to 52 or so and pitched, then left in the garage overnight in about mid 50’s temp and put in water baths in the basement today at mid to upper 50’s and allowing a slow rise to mid 60’s over the next few days (water changes as needed). Does 1728 like to finish warmer than that?
I am shooting for a clean profile - and I intend to use this yeast over the rest of this year as a standard ale yeast along with 1450. My lagers are locked on Omega Y-06 and WLP 802 presently…
I’ve brewed several beers with 1728, from small Scottish to big, to APAs and IPAs. Its a great clean fermenter at cool temps. My suggestion is for really clean with it is to stay in the 50-60º range for the first week or so. Be careful not to go up and down in temp because a drop could make it go dormant (stalled). Once its about 75% done you can ramp it up to 68-70 with no problems
Precisely what I wanted to know - and I knew you would know it.
Just had another thought/question similar to the start of this thread. How does everyone cold crash. Slowly bring the beer down in temps or just set the temperature control way low and let it go? And what at what temperature, and for how long, so you consider a beer “cold crashed”
Just looking to compare ideas and methods again.
“Crash” implies doing it all at once, not gradually. That’s what I do. Usually 33-35F, for as long as it takes to get the result I want.
What Denny said.
For lagers I have been going down to -1C.