Hefe

A 2L mason jar is too small for an SNS starter.  The container needs to be at least four times the volume of the starter.

I use a 5L borosilicate glass (a.k.a. Pyrex or Kimax) media bottle.  While I hot-pack my starter medium, I would never boil in it.  I would never boil in an Erlenmeyer flask either because that is a shatter event waiting to happen.  The proper piece of borosilicate glass labware to use for boiling is a boiling flask.  A boiling flask is round because the expansion and contraction stresses are evenly distributed in sphere.

Received replacement yeast, temp received 70 F.
Won’t be ready to brew Hefeweizen for 2 weeks.
Fermenting 4.5 gallons, 4.5 ABV.

Can I pitch both yeasts the same time ?
expires (05 May 2021) & expires (10 Dec 2020).

Thanks

Sure.  You probably don’t need to, but you can.

No starter needed pitching both same time  ?
What impact on clove/banana balance using both ? or just the new one ?

Thanks

This is a perfect situation for you to decide one wy or the other and find out for yourself.

I’d pitch both, if for no other reason than to use up the old one. It contains relatively few healthy cells as-is. You could go to modest lengths to revive it…or just use it and be done with it. It won’t hurt the beer any if you pitch it…or not. The one you just received is a fresh pouch, and direct-pitching it (with or without the old one) will give you a great pitch-rate for your hef.

I’ve never bothered with SNS starters. What I use works well for me.

Thanks

I agree with this for most beer styles. However, there seems to be agreement out there to avoid overpitching when brewing a Hefeweizen. The following quote is from the article, link below.

I’m not telling you to deliberately under pitch, but don’t take whatever steps you normally do to encourage yeast growth. Don’t grow up a starter. Don’t oxygenate the wort. One smack-pack, no oxygen or aeration.

Only using the fresher Wyeast 3068.
Will use older yeast to test my smacking skills.

Just did test, didn’t feel right smacking it, thoughts of pack bursting.
Located pouch inside with fingers, squeezed it, then felt/heard it pop.

Thanks for input

Would rice hulls be necessary for BIAB ?
Stir every 20 minutes for 90 minutes to equalize heat.

Thanks

I doubt it.

Thanks, had to double check.
Finalizing my notes for the Hefeweizen.

I do.  But I sparge my bag too, so I’m kind of goofy.

Today finally brewed the Hefeweizen.
All the temperatures and times ran like clockwork.

However, the nutrient pack in pouch was difficult to break.
Unlike the first one when a strong squeeze popped it,
this one was squeezed, smacked over and over again.
When I thought the packet was broken, proceeded with
brewing.  Takes about 4 hours to get to the point for pitching yeast.

After pouring liquid yeast in fermenter peered in pouch to see what
the packet looked like, not broken :<.

Command decision was to break nutrient and pour in fermenter.
It took a helluva lot of smacking to break.

What did this do to the Hefeweizen ?

Thanks

You will be fine.  The yeast were feeding on your wort before you broke the packet. :slight_smile:

Sometimes the packets are a real pain to pop.  I typically trap them in a corner of main package while they lay on flat surface and push on them with my palm with all weight until it pops.

Paul

They’re called smackpacks for a reason. I hold it flat in one hand, position the nutrient bubble over the palm, and then smack the holy living hell out of it with my other palm. Seems like you might pop the whole pouch open and have a mess on your hands, as well as lost yeast, but you won’t. At least, that has never happened with me. They can take the smacking. Show that pouch who’s boss!

Tbere is really nothing to be gained by popping them other than to verify viability.  I seldom bother.

Was prepared for an aggressive fermentation with Wyeast 3068.
It’s fermenting, but no different from other dry yeasts used, inch or two high krausen line.
I’m guessing it’s because I’m fermenting on the low side (64F) ?