WCIPA is fermenting away. I usually dry hop 3 or 4 days after fermentation has stopped but I am thinking about cold crashing first to remove most of the latent yeast, let it warm back up to ambient basement temps (60*) and then dry hop.
Question is, does it make any difference at what temp when dry hopping? Could I dry hop @ 35* after cold crash is complete and I have drawn off my yeast slurry or is it best to dry hop at warmer temps? Is the hop extraction more or less at varying temperatures?
Cold crashing and adding the dry hops when cold works fine. It avoids the possibility of hop creep, since the yeast are out of action. I don’t think it affects extraction much, if at all.
My SOP is to crash to 35F, then dry hop for 48-72 hours at that temp. Works better than anyth8ng else I’ve ever tried.
A recent podcast on the MBAA suggested that the brewers at Sierra Nevada had success dry hopping at fermenter temperature prior to cold crashing the beer. They had more “onion/garlic” and “catty” when dry hopping at cold temps. But, of course, you should try it and see for yourself.
I dry hop at fermentation temps then cold crash after 1-2 days (usually).
Ive been cold dry hopping for a while now, and I haven’t experienced that. Not doubting SN by any means, but I haven’t experienced it.
I dry hop with ~3 days left in fermentation while still active (55°F for Lagers, 65°F for Ales).
I realize it bucks the ‘dry hop cool’ research. But I have ulterior motives.
I want the yeast to consume, and the CO2 produced to push out, any O2 I introduce when I open the fermenter. That’s the theory anyway…
Disclaimer: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. I am not paid or sponsored by anyone. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV
I do the same thing cold dry hopping is all I do now. Love the flavors from this method.
It’s a trade off, huh? Either early for O2 or layer for flavor and aroma. At least that’s the way I see it and what drives my own decision.
I like to dry hop at ambient temperature, post fermentation for 2 days.
I’ll then transfer into the 2.5 gal. keg onto a small charge (.25oz) of dry hops that will remain in the keg for the duration. I’ve used this method ever since I bought a top-draw for serving. Considering the keg is usually finished in 3-4 weeks, I’ve never noticed “grassy” or “vegetal” from this method. I’ll acknowledge that the hops aroma is somewhat lessened by the time the beer is gone.
I keg hopped for maybe 15 years and eventually became dissatisfied with the results. I went back to conventional room temp dry hopping and decided I preferred that. Then I discovered short cold and thats all I do now. If you haven’t t ried it, it might be worth it to check it out on a batch.
Actually, before I started drawing beer from the top of the keg, that was the way I did it. Had to get the hops out lest they plug the post.
I’ve fussed with the amounts a bit, but leaving a small charge in the keg seems to be working well for me. And it’s easier, so that fits nicely with how I like to brew. 
I do that too. I also use sous vide magnets to suspend my hop bag and dry hop after cold crash but only with small batches so I know there is room in the fermenter.
My preferred temperature is 58f
Unless you bottle the beer and the beer gets warm.
In the first place, hop creep seldom happens in the homebrew world. I have yet to see a documented, proven case. Also, once you bottle the conditions that can cause hop creep have been removed. I wouldn’t worry about it.
My experience as a judge indicates otherwise. We will have to agree to disagree.
I’d be interested to know how you know what you detected was due to hop creep. I have some judging experience,also.