Stopping at 1.030

Ingredients
1

Hello everyone, just joined AHA and inquiring for the first time.

I’ve brewing ales from grains for a while but often the FG don’t pass 1.030. Usually my OG (several recipes) is around 1.060 and I follow the standard practices (i.e.  hydrate the yeast at friendly temperature, aggressively aerate the wort and ferment in my basement between 65-70F). Water is above the average quality where I live.

Also, I like to brew small batches of 3 gallons and use just one yeast package (usually Safale 05) which should be enough for this gravity and volume. My last batch I moved the fermenter to the house upper levels for extra activity and diacetyl rest but the refractometer still did not move that much.

Any clues on what might be influencing this? My beer is usually tasty and acceptable but this limited fermentation is still an open item.

Thanks!

2

Buy yourself a hydrometer.

3

+1. You probably aren’t adjusting your refractometer reading for the alcohol content of the beer. A finish hydrometer is a great tool to have. Otherwise look up a conversion calculator. I think there’s on in BeerSmith but there are plenty online.

4

As the others have said, the refraction doesn’t give an accurate reading when alcohol is present. The correction calculator will definitely get you close but a hydrometer is best for post fermentation.

5

You MUST use a conversion calculator like the following one whenever alcohol is present:

And you might want to fall down a rabbit hole on how to do it right here:

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=28544.15

6

Thanks guys I have a hydrometer but thought the refractometer would give me even more accurate reading. Cheers!

7

In my experience, a hydrometer is always more accurate than a refractometer.

8

That is a fact.  When in doubt, the hydrometer always wins.  A refractometer (plus conversion calculations) can only get you “pretty close”.

9

+1 - a more expensive tool isn’t always more precise. I use a refractometer pre-fermentation for ease of use, but a hydrometer is a lot more precise and repeatable in my experience.

10

Well it depends on your hydrometer. Post fermentation totally agree but for checking OG a refractometer should be spot on and the paper won’t jostle or move like in cheap hydrometers. A lab hydrometer is you best bet all around.

11

I use Brewing America hydrometers. Well calibrated and built.  More accurate than any refractometer I’ve had (there 4 sitting in a drawer now)

12

I always use my refractometer for brewday gravity checks since it is ATC and uses such a small amount and doesn’t need cooled and then, once the wort is cooled, I do a hydrometer check. Then I check FG with hydrometer. I haven’t ever even bothered checking post fermentation with refractometer.

13

Enjoying the conversations guys and I am glad to have both tools at my disposal now that I know what and when to use them. Better to waste a bit more of the precious liquid in the end of fermentation and have an accurate reading - I should be able now to pass the 1.030 mark!

14

I don’t think of the sample as a waste. I enjoy drinking it with a meal.

15

I don’t think of the sample as a waste. I enjoy drinking it with a meal.

My thoughts exactly. Even yeasty samples get drank or is it drunk? Anywho, waste not, want not!!

16

Agree with drinking the sample. The only time I do the final reading with correction is when I’m fermenting small 1 gallon batches.

17

I put the sample in a 20 oz. PET bottle with wn carbonator cap.  Hit it with 30 psi, put it in the freezer for 45 min. and I have a cold, carbed sample.