LOL. I didn’t know you were doing a NEIPA. I just saw where you said IPA. I’m glad you didn’t use the profile I posted for your New England. Very different!
I do have a copy and wish I would have read it before! I wish BruNwater had some updated water profiles
Yeah sorry. I realized my OP only briefly mentioned that I wanted to do a NEIPA.
So, I was thinking of using this one from this forum’s thread:
Bru’n- 3.2g - Gypsum, 3.2g CaCl, .7g Epsom
Final Profile- 142-5-8-154-156
My existing water profile is: 11-2-4-9-2-23. Can I just throw in the numbers above and try to match the target and actual?
All you need is color and flavor. That’s all I ever use.
Yep, that’s how it works
I just realized that that is a 1:1. Should I go with a 2:1 or 3:1 chloride : sulfate ratio?
You can go 2:1 chloride, a number of people do for NEIPA. If it were me, I’d back down to 200:100 instead of 300:150. Too much mineral content can become minerallly in taste.
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I’m a little late to this thread, but I thought I’d put in a note. Your water is surprisingly neutral. Due to the low chlorine content, I’d suspect that your water company is disinfecting with chloramine (a very common approach these days). Chloramine produces off flavors, so you’ll want to remove it if it’s there. If you’re not sure, call your water company and ask. There are lots of web articles about removing chloramine, so I’ll say no more.
Good luck!
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Good point. The easiest and fastest way to get rid of chloramine is campden tablets. One tablet treats 20 gallons of water almost instantly.
Sorry, I thought I mentioned it… it’s my private well water (340 ft down). I decided to do this hazy ipa mainly because I want more experience with hops. It’s unreal how much content is out there for the hazy IPA. I’ll just find some typical NEIPA water profile and use that. I’ll be pressure fermenting to avoid O2. 1st hop addition in primary (got to decide WHEN based on all these different options), 2nd hop addition sitting in the corny keg in a mesh filter.
I forgot to mention this in my OP. I do not add any minerals to my sparge water, I just acidify with phosphoric acid to get a pH of between 5.2 and 5.6. The minerals calculated for the sparge in Bru’n Water get added to the kettle
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Same here
Just a note about using software for your water chemistry… There is a difference between Ward Labs SO4-S value and the SO4 value used in software programs. Multiply the Ward Labs report SO4-S by 3 to get SO4, (SO4-S x 3 = SO4) I use BeerSmith, which uses SO4. I have it on good authority that Brewfather wants SO4-S, and Bru’n Water uses SO4. Just be sure to use the right one or it’ll throw off your Sulfate values.
Wow! OP’s untreated water profile has some super low mineral content… Wish I had that for my house water. No need for RO; just add up water salts to build just about any water profile from your charcoal-filtered base water.
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I did notice that comment in bru’n water and made the simple calculations, but thanks for the heads up! I get to wait another week because the brew store I ordered from sent me a replacement yeast since they were out of the omega cosmic punch. I’m still deciding on a water profile to use.
One last question. I need to add phosphoric acid to my sparge. Do I add that before or after the water additives ? Does it matter ?
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I would put all mineral salts in the mash and simply acidity the sparge.
And multiply NO3-N x 4 to get NO3
so don’t split and it up, put all additives in the mash water and then the phosphoric acid in the sparge water? Here’s my water adjustment screenshot:
Yep. There’s a checkbox for adding all minerals to mash.
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I am assuming you are doing an all grain brew. If you put your grain bill in the program it will give you a good estimate of what your mash pH will be in the mash tun.
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