BrewtanB, who uses it

Who of you’all are using it and can you tell a difference?  Brulosophy couldn’t tell a difference after 6mos.  Kegging vs bottles make any difference?  What amounts are being used?

I had a lengthy thread here some time ago about it maybe actually causing problems – haze – its supposed to solve IME.  At best, I can’t see any significant difference.  But I tossed a half teaspoon in the mash on my last two brews just to see again.  Not going to be tapped yet for a while, but I still don’t see a difference.  I understand the theory, binding protein and chelating metals upstream to avoid downstream problems.  Commercially it is normally added in the aging tank to achieve these ends, and that is the manufacturer’s recommendation.  I don’t see this homebrew usage being terribly effective,  but again,  I’ll see if my experience changes.

I have added 1/4 - 1/2 tsp to 8 gallons of water for a couple of mashes. It turns my water purple, but I haven’t noticed any other benefits.

I’ve been using it in every batch for the last two years (but only in the mash, not in the boil).

I don’t know, would be my answer to your second question.

I’ve been using it in both the mash and boil for about a year and a half. I use it at the manuf recommended rate.
At about the same time I made a couple of other changes to my cold side handling (spunding, keg purge and closed transfer with CO2) so I really don’t know what difference it made by itself.
I plan on continuing to use it.

I first began using BtB May 2018 in the mash and boil. I only keg so cannot comment on bottling. Likewise, I brew about two months prior to drinking and it takes ~ one month to consume a keg so I cannot comment on freshness beyond that.

I can say I was a sceptic and therefore fairly late in adoption. However, since incorporating it, I have been pleased with the results.

I stopped using Brewtan B and all low oxygen chemicals. I do add 1/4 tablet Campden to my water to dissipate Chloramine.

I use my Grainfather per it’s instructions, ferment about 10 days in a Big Mouth Bubbler, keg (I do fill the keg with co2 and burp before filling), wait 2 weeks, and drink. My kegs are empty within a month or less. My friends and I love the beer.

Curious: why did you decide to quit using them.

Because I don’t taste a difference in my beer with and without these additives.

Great reason!

I have similarly stopped using antioxidants (and BTB except for a recent revisit as posted above,) and without SMB to contend with, I can usually just carbon filter instead of RO.  Nice side benefit.  But that might not be germaine to this topic:

Don’t forget, the association of gallotannin with low oxygen brewing techniques is purely incidental and restricted to a particular approach popular among homebrewers.  None of these substances or methods are used in German low oxygen brewhouses, while gallotannin has a long history in brewing outside of Germany.  It was once used as a kettle fining, but that practice was long ago abandoned in flavor of more effective agents.  It is still commonly used in the aging tank to bind and help precipitate proteins, enhancing the effectiveness of other clarifiers and filtration.  There it also chelates metals accumulated in the process to that point.  In an MBAA podcast, Joe F. said that this (just prior to filtration and packaging) is the way to go if you are using it either for clarification or to chelate metals to forestall oxidative staling in packaged beer; he was doubtful that its addition anywhere on the hot side would have any significant effect in these regards, but acknowledged that some people (mainly homebrewers) who lack the ability to incorporate the standard cold side processes might try it in the mash and evaluate it for themselves.

So go ahead and try any of this stuff.  Then yeah, if you can’t tell the difference,  don’t bother!  And if it helps, do tell.

Joe is a member of my brew club, so he presented to the club a few years back when it was not available here to homebrewers (I got my first few ounces from Australia back then).  I use it because it pulls residual iron from my RO water and assists in skimming the hot break, not to mention helping my beers clarify well. YMMV, of course, but I like the results and I attribute them in part, at least, to BTB.

Cheers!

I use 1/4 tsp in both mash and sparge. I have an old house, old pipes and use tap water. So, even if all it’s doing is chelating metals, it’s beneficial.

In my kegged beer, color is lighter, beer is ultimately clearer, and fresh flavor seems to last longer.

So, as far as using 1/2 tsp per brew, I’d say it’s cheap insurance if not the miracle cure for everything.

YMMV.

Keep in mind, with regards to LOB, if one is not pre-boiling mash/strike/sparge water, then the use of any antioxidants really is a moot point simply because you are already starting with water that is saturated with  dissolved oxygen.

My understanding is that BTB is not a direct antioxidant like, say, Sodium Metabisulfite, rather BTB reacts with some of the things that would otherwise cause oxidation to occur sooner, neutralizing the oxidative effects of those compounds.

Cheers!

That’s strange because the spec sheet specifically notes that there are various formulations of the product designed to be used at different stages (for example, Brewtan C and Brewtan F) and that Brewtan B should be used during the mash and/or the boil.

I agree. That is an odd statement given the information he gave Denny that specifically says to use it in the mash and boil.

“The amounts I was given by a factory rep are in volume, not weight, so that’s what I use.  1/4 tsp. per 5 gal. of mash and sparge water.  That means fpr 5 gal. of mash water you’d use 1/4 tsp. and for 3 gal. of sparge water you’d use a bit over 1/8 tsp.  Then 15 min. before end of boil 1/2 tsp. mixed with a bit of wort per 5 gal.  Using volume is OK in this case because you just don’t have to be tenth of a gram accurate.”

…and experimental brewing: “Joe recommends a dosing rate of 1/4 tsp (0.5gm) per 5 gallons of sparge/mash water and 1/2 tsp (1.0gm) dissolved into a beer slurry and added to  the boil at 16 minutes. It’s a wee amount!”

And he seemed dismissive of that usage of B, which made me take notice.  IIRC he recommended A be used early on, as it is intended to select proteins in the mash so as to fix a permanent haze in hazy beers.  The spec sheet may have been written by someone more interested in promoting product rather than having actual technical expertise?  It’s a very old product they’re trying find a new market for, after all.  And this may be getting pretty fine, but:  as I recall, the spec sheet words it something like “use in mash and boil is becoming popular;” it doesn’t say this is actually recommended usage.  Pretty slick?

It’s pretty specific on the website:

“Brewtan B

Mashing In

Process

Brewtan[emoji2400] B, which is dissolved in the mash water prior to the raw materials, increases the antioxidant power, inhibits LOX-enzymes, reduces the formation of aldehydes and is a very good metalchelating agent.

Result

A remarkable increase in flavor stability. Also, the lautering performance is improved by up to 30% with a higher extract quality and an increased brewhouse yield.

Boiling

Process

Brewtan[emoji2400] B, which is added just before the transfer to the whirlpool or proportionally during transfer to the whirlpool at the end of boiling, is an easy way to obtain a good colloidal stability early in the process. Brewtan[emoji2400] B increases the hot-break formation, whirlpool yield and also improves the antioxidant power of the beer.

Result

Less tank bottoms, shorter maturation times and longer filter runs with a reduction in processing aids, stabilizers and filter aids.”

My impression is that the website may not be as current as Joe’s statements.  They may have done more studies since the material appeared on the website and fine tuned the application for commercial brewers a bit?  I know I like my process and the results, so I don’t think I will add it just before packaging - my beer is pretty clear at that point!